"Kitty Rodeo delivers a sharp, single-pitch trad climb on Unaweep Canyon’s uncompromising granite. Its two distinct starts offer a blend of power and finesse, culminating in a memorable finger crack that appeals to climbers eager for thoughtful movement and technical protection."
Perched on the rugged expanse of Mother's Buttress within Unaweep Canyon, Kitty Rodeo offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb that demands both finesse and confidence. This 60-foot route draws you into the stark, sun-warmed granite, where the rock’s texture shifts from solid slabs to inviting finger cracks. Approaching via The Main Wall, the climb begins with two distinctive options. The left start challenges taller climbers with a powerful high hand jam off a prominent boulder leaning against the face, a move that feels natural and secure if your reach favors it. Alternatively, the right start requires a careful traverse in from below the adjacent Go Slide route, carving out a more technical and cautious introduction that tests footwork precision and patience.
As you ascend, the bolt line guides you upward, breaking the climb into manageable cruxes and rhythm. A particularly rewarding finger crack awaits near the anchor, offering a tactile dance that tests your grip and balance. Protection combines five fixed bolts with traditional gear placements up to 2.5 inches, inviting careful gear selection and placement to negotiate the route’s subtle variations. The granite itself feels alive under your hands—solid but demanding respect, especially where delicate smears meet sharp edges.
The setting amplifies the climb’s appeal. Unaweep Canyon’s dry air carries the occasional whisper of wind through sparse pinyon and juniper, while expansive desert vistas stretch toward the Book Cliffs beyond Grand Junction. Early morning or late afternoon light enhances both the rock’s texture and your grip comfort, as the day’s heat shifts and settles. For climbers aiming for a moderately challenging grade that's approachable yet technical, Kitty Rodeo stands out as a compact journey merging physicality with thoughtful movement.
Before you head out, prepare with sturdy footwear that balances edging and smearing capabilities, and pack gear to protect against the route’s bolt and crack protection demands. Hydration is key, as the desert environment rapidly dries the air and effort. The approach trail is a short hike over uneven terrain, requiring solid trail shoes and awareness of loose rock sections. Timing your climb during spring or fall offers the most comfortable temperatures, avoiding the intense sun and heat of summer.
Kitty Rodeo is not just a climb but an encounter—the granite’s challenge calling for attention and respect. From the starting moves to the final clip, this route blends focused technicality with open landscape appreciation—a perfect choice for climbers eager to expand their trad repertoire within Colorado’s striking, less crowded canyon settings.
Watch for loose rock on the approach and remain vigilant placing gear near the bolt line. The canyon’s arid climate can cause dry, flaky rock in spots—stay attentive and test holds before trusting them fully.
Opt for the left start if you have a longer reach to handle the high hand jam smoothly.
Plan your climb in spring or fall to avoid the intense heat and get better friction from cooler rock.
Hydrate thoroughly before the climb—the dry canyon air can quickly sap your energy.
Wear approach shoes with good traction to navigate the rocky, uneven trail comfortably.
Bring standard trad rack with cams sized up to 2.5 inches to protect natural placements, plus the five fixed bolts along the route. Sturdy shoes with good edging support are recommended for technical footwork.
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