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Keough Memorial Buttress: A Compact Sport Climb on Mammoth’s Sierra Eastside

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
finger crack
arete
sport climbing
single pitch
granite
easy approach
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Keough Memorial Buttress
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Keough Memorial Buttress delivers a focused 80-foot sport climb combining finger crack technique with an airy arete traverse. Perfect for climbers seeking a solid introduction to Sierra Eastside granite, the route offers reliable protection and straightforward approach in a quiet mountain setting."

Keough Memorial Buttress: A Compact Sport Climb on Mammoth’s Sierra Eastside

Keough Memorial Buttress offers a concise but engaging sport climb tucked within the rocky embrace of California’s Sierra Eastside, near Mammoth Lakes. This single-pitch route extends roughly 80 feet, presenting a hands-on approach with a mix of technical finger crack climbing and an airy traverse along a striking arete. From the first move, your fingers find purchase in a well-defined crack, urging you upward while you clip the initial pair of bolts. As you gain height, the climb invites you to shift right across a horizontal crack before continuing straight up the left edge of the arete. Staying left here is crucial; the terrain right of this line shows loose, less stable rock that can quickly sap confidence and safety. The rock surfaces feel solid and inviting in contrast—compact granite with enough texture to maintain grip without shredding skin. With seven bolts placed to open quickdraws ensuring secure protection, this route balances a sport climb’s simplicity with a touch of natural placing if you wish to add gear. The quality and spacing of bolts offer peace of mind, especially considering the note that earlier reports mentioned missing hangers, but all hardware has been updated and tested.

Approaching the buttress is straightforward from the Clark Canyon area, taking roughly 15 minutes on well-worn trails weaving through sparse pines and rocky patches typical of this section of the Sierra Nevada. The climb faces a mostly eastward direction, bathing in morning sun with the afternoon shading the arete, making early outings ideal during the warmer months. The setting captures the rugged charm of the Eastern Sierra—quiet, slightly remote, with the distant hum of wind through juniper and occasional bird calls filling the air. While brief, this route appeals to climbers seeking a no-fuss project for an afternoon session, a quick sharp season opener, or a solid warm-up before pushing longer walls nearby. The moderate 5.8 rating feels welcoming without being trivial; it challenges well-balanced finger strength and foot precision, with a subtle crux in the traverse that rewards control and clear footwork.

Safety here leans heavily on route awareness and rock stability off the left line. The climb’s simplicity belies the importance of sticking to the left side of the arete. The chossy rock toward the right risks loose debris, which could also threaten partners below. Good climbing shoes with sticky rubber and a helmet are essential given the nature of the terrain and surrounding talus. Weather on the Sierra Eastside fluctuates quickly, so soaking in ample hydration, especially on sunny days, is critical. Expect light winds that can oscillate in the afternoon, adding a refreshing but sometimes chilling element as you descend. Descent follows a short and straightforward route down the talus slope back to the base with no rappel required, making it easy to pack up quickly for another climb or head back into town.

For those new to the area or looking to build confidence on solid sport routes, Keough Memorial Buttress stands out as a highly approachable yet technically satisfying climb with clear beta and reliable protection. Its blend of crack and face climbing offers a varied experience in one pitch, a testament to the diversity of Mammoth Lakes climbing. It rewards both preparation and attentiveness, encouraging respectful use of the landscape and a tactical approach that mixes adventure with safety.

Climber Safety

Avoid climbing the right face of the arete because of loose and crumbly rock. The bolts provide solid protection, but stay vigilant about rockfall risks especially during warmer, dry periods when the terrain loosens.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Stick to the left side of the arete to avoid loose rock on the right.

Wear sticky climbing shoes for optimal grip on the slabby granite.

Start early to enjoy morning sun and cooler temperatures.

Bring a helmet to protect against occasional rockfall from above.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Keough Memorial Buttress offers moderate difficulty with a clean crux during the traverse. The grade feels true to style—challenging enough to require technical footwork and steady finger jams but without hard moves. Compared to other nearby sport routes, it leans toward the approachable side, making it great for climbers stepping up into multi-move sport lines.

Gear Requirements

The climb is protected by seven bolts designed for open quickdraws. While some earlier guides noted missing hangers on the first three bolts, the hardware has been updated and is currently secure. Optional gear placements are possible but unnecessary for safety.

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Tags

finger crack
arete
sport climbing
single pitch
granite
easy approach