"Kansas Honey is a three-pitch route blending bolted security and traditional climbing challenges in Elevenmile Canyon’s granite walls. This 5.9 climb invites climbers to test gear placements and rope skills amid a river-carved landscape with just the right dose of wilderness."
Kansas Honey offers an engaging three-pitch trad climb tucked within the rugged embrace of Elevenmile Canyon. This route is a compelling mix of bolted and traditional climbing, starting off with a well-protected first pitch anchored by bolts and transitioning to natural gear placements on the second and third pitches as the rock demands a more hands-on approach. The canyon’s granite crags rise sharply against the backdrop of high country, their weathered faces telling tales of wind and water carving the landscape over millennia.
From the base, the first pitch calls for careful attention: eight bolts protect the way to a two-bolt anchor, giving confidence to climbers as they ascend the initial vertical section. However, the route quickly shifts character; pitches two and three require placing a full rack of trad gear — stoppers and cams up to three inches — on solid rock that invites thoughtful protection placement. The climb’s 125-foot length may be modest, but the variety of climbing techniques and the need for double-rope rappels add depth to the experience.
Elevenmile Canyon itself projects an aura of untamed wilderness, where river currents push insistently nearby, and the walls catch the shifting sunlight to play tricks with shadow and form. Hikers and climbers alike share the approach trail with the steady sound of water moving relentlessly, daring visitors to match its persistence. The granite glints under afternoon skies, promising dry conditions but demanding respect for sudden weather changes common in this Colorado corridor.
Practical planning is key for Kansas Honey. Double ropes are indispensable—not simply optional—due to the first pitch’s bolt spacing and the need for safe rappels. Climbers should also anticipate a moderately technical approach: a trail leading through forested sections and rock-strewn ground before reaching the base, typically requiring 20 to 30 minutes to navigate. Timing your climb for mid-morning ensures the wall is sunlit but not yet heated to the point of discomfort.
Finally, the route’s moderate 5.9 rating makes it accessible to climbers with some experience in both sport and traditional styles, but it demands respect for gear placement skills and rope management. In short, Kansas Honey combines an approachable yet varied climbing challenge with the natural ruggedness of Colorado’s granite canyons, yielding an adventure that is rewarding both for its movement and its setting.
Rappel anchors on pitch one require double ropes; using a single rope may result in short rappels and increased risk. Rock quality is generally solid but be cautious on loose sections near the top. Weather can change rapidly—prepare for sudden temperature drops and potential afternoon storms.
Use double ropes for rappel; a single 70m rope won’t reach the ground safely.
Bring a full trad rack including small to medium cams and stoppers for the upper pitches.
Start climbing mid-morning to avoid the chill and catch warm sunlight on the wall.
Ensure shoes have sticky rubber for both the bolted first pitch and the more friction-dependent trad sections.
The route’s first pitch is bolted with eight bolts leading to a two-bolt anchor, but a single 70-meter rope is insufficient for rappelling. Double ropes are recommended to safely lower or rappel. Pitches two and three require a traditional rack with stoppers and cams up to three inches for secure protection.
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