HomeClimbingMarital Bliss

Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
trad
aid climbing
bolt ladder
desert sandstone
single-pitch
loose rock
crack climb
anchor replacement
Length: 160 ft
Type: Trad, Aid
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Marital Bliss
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Marital Bliss offers a compact slice of adventure on Jolly Tower’s wild west face. This climb blends loose rock passage with a steady crack system and culminates in a daring bolt ladder to the summit. A challenging, gritty route for those ready to mix free and aid on Colorado sandstone."

Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss

Ascending Jolly Tower via the Marital Bliss route delivers a compact yet intriguing blend of traditional and aid climbing that challenges both your technique and mental resolve. This single-pitch climb packs 160 feet of rugged rock that demands focus from the first move. The climb begins on the tower’s west face, navigating a precarious stretch of loose, manky rock before settling into a clean crack system that offers a reassuring line of hand and finger jams. This crack beckons climbers upward, but the terrain is far from forgiving—loose rock waits just beyond, forcing a cautious transition out of your aiders. Here, you switch gears to a free climb that skirts the unstable sections, leading to a hand-sized crack crowned by a solid ledge perched above a giant flake.

While you can anchor here, the placement is less than ideal, and the full experience comes by continuing upward on a bolt ladder that climbs the remaining pitch. The bolt ladder, essentially a direct vertical ascent to the summit, demands steady nerves—it’s more a test of commitment and aid technique than free climbing prowess. The presence of six bolt holes, often filled with pins, means your gear choices heavily influence how clean and secure your ascent feels.

Protection calls for a careful rack, including doubles from green Alien cams through to the #4 Camalot, with a new #5 Camalot available but optional. Cord for tie-offs on pins and solid anchor replacement is essential, as is a pair of ropes to execute a safe rappel back down. The climb’s rating at 5.8 C1 strikes a balance—while the free climbing sections hold moderate difficulty, the aid climbing portions, especially the bolt ladder, add a layer of technical challenge that can catch climbers off guard.

Marital Bliss sits within Colorado National Monument near Grand Junction, a dry, sun-drenched landscape known for its towering sandstone formations and expansive views. The approach is straightforward but exposed, and conditions can rapidly shift with the desert heat—early starts will help you avoid the most punishing sun. The surrounding area rewards climbers with wide panoramas that stretch toward distant mesas, setting a scenic stage that contrasts against the intimate focus required on the climb itself.

Whether you’re testing your skills or just after a memorable introduction to aid climbing on sandstone, this route’s mixture of loose rock, classic cracks, and challenging bolt ladder will leave you with a story and a sense of accomplishment. Careful preparation and respect for the rack and conditions turn this route from a potential headache into a rewarding ascent.

Climber Safety

Loose rock in the initial section poses a hazard—slow, deliberate movements reduce risk. Anchors above the flake are marginal and often require replacement or reinforcement with cord. The bolt ladder can test your aid proficiency; a fall here would be serious. Plan your rappel carefully, as anchors may not be fully reliable.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Aid
Pitches1
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the desert heat and avoid hot midday sun on the west face.

Wear sticky shoes that can handle both clean crack jams and flaky sandstone.

Double rope rappel to safely descend; anchors can be worn or unreliable.

Inspect loose rock carefully—commitment is essential but so is caution.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 C1
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 free climbing sections feel fairly straightforward, though the presence of loose rock demands attentive movement. The aid rating C1 comes into play on the bolt ladder, which is more technical and gains difficulty as you rely on bolts and pins. Compared to other Colorado National Monument climbs, Marital Bliss is more committed due to its combination of insecure rock and aid laddering.

Gear Requirements

Pack doubles from green Alien to #4 Camalot, a new #5 for added security (though optional), cord for pin replacements, and bring two ropes for the rappel. Pins are often left in bolt holes but plan for tie-offs where anchors are worn.

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Tags

trad
aid climbing
bolt ladder
desert sandstone
single-pitch
loose rock
crack climb
anchor replacement