John Henry offers climbers an accessible yet engaging two-pitch trad route on the northwest face of Lembert Dome in Yosemite National Park's Tuolumne Meadows area. Beginning roughly 200 feet south from the start of the Direct NW Face, this climb draws you in with a low-angle crack that snakes invitingly upward before veering right along a slab dotted with bolts placed to protect each challenging move.

The first pitch is a thoughtful warm-up. You follow a crack that gradually shifts direction, finding a solid 1-2 inch cam placement tucked into the line’s subtle features. The climbing here stays on the easier side of the spectrum, hovering around 5.7 (5.6 R), offering respite moments as you ascend the slab slowly gaining confidence and rhythm. The well-spaced bolts can require trusting your feet and pro to keep you steady. After around 180 feet, you reach a double bolt anchor with rappel rings—your gateway to pitch two or a launching pad to continue upward.

Pitch two shifts gear with steeper, more technical face climbing graded at 5.9. This section demands sharper focus as you navigate holds that challenge your balance and finger strength. Eight bolts secure the key points along this pitch, with rest spots providing brief recovery before pushing on. At approximately 180 feet, a second double bolt anchor awaits with options: either rappel back down in two ropes or tackle the continuation onto the Direct NW Face. Taking the latter introduces a dirtier slab with some unprotected sections, including a worn 1/4 inch bolt and a tricky 5.9 R move, connecting you to the second to last pitch of the Direct NW Face route.

The experience John Henry delivers is one of calculated adventure. The route encourages careful gear placements and strategic movement, while the granite’s texture and the wide-open exposure invite you to engage fully with this iconic Yosemite environment. Expect crisp mountain air and sweeping views of Tuolumne Meadows stretching below, with Lembert Dome’s rock responding under your hands as you climb.

For climbers planning their trip, early starts help avoid warming afternoon sun on the mostly northwest-facing wall, which benefits from shade in the heat of midday. Gear requirements are straightforward but demand attention: bring a solid rack focused on cams in the 1-2 inch range, supplemented by quickdraws for the bolts. The new bolts and hangers, refreshed recently by ASCA volunteers, significantly enhance safety and confidence on this route.

Approach the climb via the well-marked trail from the Tuolumne Meadows campground, allowing 20-30 minutes for a steady hike to the base. The trail runs through open meadows and sparse pine groves framing the dome, and the view of the granite face rising above is a rewarding moment before your ascent.

Downclimbing is not advised; instead, take the two-pronged rappel system back to the ground. The rappel anchors are fixed and reliable, but windy conditions can add complexity to the descent. Check weather forecasts and harness proper rope management techniques to ensure a safe return to base camp.

Overall, John Henry serves as an excellent route for those wanting a taste of Yosemite’s classic granite with a manageable length and solid protection. It holds appeal to climbers stepping up from moderate climbs, as well as those seeking a fun variation when other lines like Crying Time are crowded. As you move through the pitches, you’ll find the balance between technique and tenacity, backed by a route that doesn’t shy away from rewarding those who climb tactfully and prepared.