"Jackson-Johnson offers a rewarding alpine trad experience on Hallett Peak’s dramatic Northeast Face. With a blend of steady moderate climbing and an exposed 5.9 crux top pitch, the route invites climbers into rugged mountain terrain framed by sweeping views and a challenging descent."
Rising boldly above Emerald Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park, the Jackson-Johnson route carves a compelling path up Hallett Peak’s Northeast Face. This alpine trad climb stretches nearly a thousand feet over eight pitches, blending solid moderate climbing with a highlight crux that tests your precision and nerve. Unlike its more direct neighbor, the Culp-Bossier, Jackson-Johnson presents a looser, more wandering line that rewards those preferring a mountaineering flavor alongside steady, sustained climbing. Approaching via Bear Lake Trailhead offers a straightforward 1.5-mile walk along well-marked forested paths, where pine and fir trees hum softly in the mountain breeze. Emerald Lake mirrors the sprawling granite above, reflecting the fading light during late afternoon or early evening, setting the stage for adventure.
The route starts on lighter-hued, sharp granite that beckons with moderate cracks and corners. Early pitches negotiate right-facing, left-leaning dihedrals and delicate traverses that invite climbers to tune into the rock’s rhythm. As you gain height, the terrain becomes more broken and alpine in character, with the air cooling and the wind teasing across exposed ledges. By the time you reach the upper buttress, the climbing tightens into a striking 5.9 corner pitch flanked by old pitons and sporadic bolts that tell silent stories of past ascents. Protection relies on a standard rack up to a #3 Camalot, with careful gear placement essential to manage friction and rope drag on some of the longer pitches.
Above the final pitch, a short scramble leads you to the summit’s edge, where expansive views stretch across peaks and valleys that seem to pulse with the rhythm of the wilderness. The descent demands equal respect: navigating a loose and treacherous gully requires slow, deliberate steps and clear judgment to avoid rockfall or risky exposures. Timing your ascent to avoid crowded descents can make a significant difference to safety and enjoyment.
Practically, the best time to climb Jackson-Johnson is late summer into early fall when alpine conditions stabilize, and the Northeast Face receives good morning light before moving into shaded afternoon. Sturdy boots for the approach and layers to adjust for temperature swings higher up are essential. Hydration is key throughout the day, as the sustained effort and altitude can quickly drain reserves. This route offers a satisfying blend of alpine mountaineering and technical trad climbing, suitable for adventurous climbers who value approach beauty and a route that demands thoughtful, continuous movement from base to summit.
The descent gully is notably loose and vulnerable to rockfall. Proceed slowly, avoid clustering parties, and be prepared for unstable footing during the downclimb. Weather changes in RMNP can also be sudden, so check forecasts and be ready to retreat if conditions worsen.
Start early to capitalize on morning sun and stable weather conditions.
Bring layers for the alpine environment; temperatures fluctuate quickly.
Hike the well-marked Bear Lake trail, keeping an eye out for wildlife.
Descend the loose gully with caution and avoid crowding to minimize rockfall risks.
A standard trad rack up to a #3 Camalot covers most protection needs. Long pitches may require careful placements to avoid rope drag, and old pitons and bolts are present but should not be relied upon exclusively.
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