"This two-pitch 5.9- trad route along Sheep's Nose offers a crisp blend of easy crack climbing and slabby laybacks in a striking Colorado setting. Ideal for trad climbers wanting a straightforward but engaging climb with manageable protection and scenic walk-off descent."
The climb known as "It Is Time to Space"—also locally dubbed "The Sheep Eat Grass"—offers a compelling two-pitch trad experience tucked into the rugged contours of Sheep's Nose along West Creek, Colorado. This route invites climbers into a compact, straightforward adventure with a grade hovering at 5.9-, perfect for those seeking confident but unforced exposure on natural features. The initial pitch starts with a hands-on scramble through a broad break, where the rock’s texture shifts from blocky to smoother slab as you move left. Early protection is sparse, requiring careful placement and a steady approach through a finger-to-hand crack that holds onto the rock’s quieter heartbeat. A fixed nut and a Friend might mark your belay spot, an obvious ledge steady enough to catch your breath and eye the next challenge.
Pitch two demands a bit more technical finesse, beginning with a layback along a slabby hand crack that tests your body positioning and core balance. The crux emerges as a peculiar face hold paired with a finger pocket, which rewards those prepared with a smaller standard cam for secure placement. Beyond that, the rock opens to a casual top-out with abundant space to establish an anchor and savor views of the shifting Colorado landscape. Descending via a straightforward walk-off gully to the right rounds out the journey nicely, making this a climb well suited for a half-day outing.
The surrounding terrain embraces a raw and wild feeling; pine-scented air drifts intermittently, and the enduring hum of West Creek below dares you forward. Elevation sits comfortably at just over 39 degrees north, with coordinates placing you squarely in a region celebrated for accessible but robust trad lines. While the route is grounded in thoughtful protection strategy, carrying a light rack with a #3 BD Camalot for the crux move is advisable. Keeping your gear minimal and precise will ensure fluid movement and quick clipping.
Whether you’re honing crack skills or simply seeking an approachable two-pitch climb in a scenic Colorado outpost, "It Is Time to Space" balances straightforward climbing and natural charm. Layer your footwear choices for grip on varying textures, and pack water sufficient for moderate exertion under changing sun exposure. Early morning starts can enhance conditions, as afternoon warmth could dry the rock but also lengthen your rest intervals between moves. This route rewards climbers with confident footwork and a practical mindset, delivering both fun and manageable adventure.
Protection on the first pitch is sparse and requires careful placement; the ledge belay may have fixed gear but always back it up. Watch footing carefully on the slab layback of pitch two as small holds can feel slick, especially during damp or cold conditions.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the slab sections.
Wear sticky-soled shoes suited for slab and crack climbing.
Hydrate well before setting out—water sources are scarce on approach.
Check weather reports carefully; rock can become slick after rain.
Bring a standard light trad rack, including a #3 BD Camalot for the crux on pitch two’s finger pocket. Protection is limited on lead, so precise placements and confidence in smaller pro are key.
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