Standing at the base of the Index tower, your adventure begins with a straightforward 7-foot climb to a ledge that opens onto a gently slanting handcrack. This less-than-vertical crack invites you to place gear confidently as you rise through a stretch of 15 feet rated around 5.5, protected well by a #3 Camalot. The rock beneath your fingers feels solid, each move deliberate, offering a steady introduction to the alpine feel of this climb. After belaying on the boulders perched just above the crack, you traverse 50 feet around the base of the first tower. Here, a choice presents itself: downclimb or rappel the 30-foot gully edged between towers one and two. The downclimb, rated 5.2, offers a manageable transition that requires focus but rewards with views into the alpine rock labyrinth that surrounds you.

Arriving at the second tower’s base, you set a belay anchored by medium stoppers, ready for the next 60 feet of climbing. This pitch rises through easier terrain, moving smoothly from finger cracks to hand jams, culminating in climbing over blocks to the tower’s summit. Rated around 5.6, this section demands steady footwork and strategic gear placements, with a relic piton slung nearby providing reliable security. As you reach the top, the wind whispers through the rocks, carrying faint scents of alpine flora and pine.

From here, a 30-foot rappel deposits you into the saddle separating towers two and Index. The route’s final stretch features initially moderate climbing (about 5.6) for 25 feet, easy to shield with the well-spaced gear placements. Approaching a small alcove, you pause to visualize the crux ahead: a 25-foot, vertical off-width rated near 5.9 requiring a #5+ Camalot—large, powerful and demanding precise technique. The rock is impeccable, quartz-rich granite that feels alive beneath your hands and feet. Conquering this section leads to the summit of Index itself, an elusive prize offering expansive, rugged views of the San Juan mountains and the surrounding alpine expanse.

The summit anchors consist of two pitons set into the backside, allowing for a controlled rappel back to the saddle. Alternatively, slinging one of the sturdy summit boulders is an option if you prefer. Then follows another rappel to a large grassy ledge on the west side, signaling your descent towards the base. A final rappel from a solid rock pinch leads efficiently to your packs, closing the loop on a climb that balances accessible protection with alpine exposure.

This route's combination of moderate technical climbing, solid protection, and breathtaking surroundings makes it a compelling choice for trad climbers looking to experience the rugged charm of the San Juans' alpine rock. Prepare for variable weather, and bring a solid rack including mid-sized stoppers and larger cams, as protection diversity is key. Water, sturdy footwear, and an early start will make the approach and climb more enjoyable, with cooler conditions extending comfort during the sustained effort.

Though not the longest route, the 200-foot ascent stretches over four pitches, each offering a unique rhythm — from the initial handcrack to the powerful off-width finale. The Index by FA Route demands both patience and power, rewarding climbers with a pure alpine experience balanced by reassuring protection and approachable terrain. Engage with the rock, listen to the mountain’s voice, and climb wisely to savor every moment on this revered alpine classic.