Incredible Hulk - The Granite Giant of California’s Sawtooth Range

Lee Vining, CA, California
granite
multi-pitch
exposed
high elevation
water crossings
loose scree
Class 3 descent
Trad climbing
alpine
Length: 900 ft
Type: Trad | Alpine
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
High Sierra Wilderness
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Rising sharply from the High Sierra, the Incredible Hulk offers climbers an imposing granite wall with technical routes and a rugged descent. Accessible via a scenic hike through Little Slide Canyon, this spot invites both ambitious day trips and tranquil base camping beneath its sheer faces."

Incredible Hulk - The Granite Giant of California’s Sawtooth Range

The Incredible Hulk is a monumental granite face that dominates the Sawtooth Range in California’s High Sierra, drawing climbers ready to test their skills on one of the area’s largest vertical systems. Part of the north ridge of Eocene Peak, the wall stands tall and proud, separated from the neighboring towers by a deep notch which doubles as the approach and exit spine for many climbers.

Accessing the Hulk requires a blend of practicality and respect for the surrounding wilderness. The trailhead begins at Twin Lakes near Mono Village, where parking at the marina carries a $15 fee (as of 2020). For those camping or returning late, overnight roadside parking is prohibited, so plan accordingly. From there, a hike westward along the Robinson Creek Trail leads to Little Slide Canyon. The trail’s nuances—like the subtle divergence between two large boulders marked by a lone pine—require hikers to stay alert, especially since official signage is absent as of recent years.

The approach challenges climbers with varied terrain, including boggy sections and creek crossings. Sandals come highly recommended for navigating the tributaries that feed Robinson Creek, as the water crossings can range from gentle to brisk, depending on the season. After this, the trail climbs steep, short switchbacks before easing into flatter ground near talus fields which may still hold snow well into the climbing season.

As the canyon narrows, the route keeps right of a central rock outcrop to avoid steeper snowy pitches. Cairns guide the way across rugged granite benches and forested patches until reaching a broad platform located just west of the Hulk's imposing wall and east of Maltby Lake. Whether making a long, hard push in one day or choosing to camp beneath the granite giant, climbers can prepare for a physically demanding and rewarding experience in a truly remote setting.

Classic climbs here include Red Dihedral (aka “Yggdrasil”) (5.10), The Polish Route (5.10), Positive Vibrations (5.11a), Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b), Tradewinds (5.11d), Lost in the Sun (5.12a), and a collection of high-end lines such as Eye of the Storm and Lenticular Gyrations, all showcasing the area’s range from solid moderate climbs to serious technical challenges. This diversity offers something for climbers seeking well-protected multi-pitch trad routes amid granite walls etched by time.

Once the summit is reached and the requisite tribute paid to the iconic Superball, climbers face a descent that demands caution and a head for exposure. The route down the south ridge is a steep Class 3 scramble, with exposed sections that are not forgiving of nervous solos. Visibility of the rappel anchor is crucial before committing; it hangs down to the left after a steep drop. A single rope rappel drops climbers into the notch separating the Hulk from its southern towers.

From there, the route descends westward through loose scree leading to a small tower and a critical junction where a challenging Class 5 downclimb of an overhanging chockstone must be negotiated carefully. The final descent back to the trailhead crosses severely loose scree fields—some of the worst encountered in the region—and requires deliberate footwork to avoid falls or injury.

This crag sits at roughly 11,040 feet in elevation, exposing climbers to changing conditions and variable weather patterns typical of the High Sierra. Planning a trip in the prime season—late spring through early fall—allows for stable conditions though afternoon thunderstorms and early snow are always a possibility. The wall faces primarily east, catching morning light and cooling down in the afternoon shade, an important consideration when scheduling climbs to avoid overheating or slick granite in wet weather.

The Incredible Hulk exists within the protected confines of the High Sierra wilderness—close to iconic landmarks yet offering its own remote, wild character. It requires climbers to come prepared not only with technical gear suited to multi-pitch trad climbing but with a mountaineer’s mindset. Expect variable footing on talus, creek crossings that may require footwear changes, and the mental edge for exposure on both climbs and descent.

Classic routes here rank mostly in the 5.10 to 5.13 range and reflect a grading style that tends to feel true to the effort required, situated well within the norms of High Sierra granite challenges. Climbing here demands respect for the rock and the conditions, rewarding those who plan meticulously with spectacular granite pitches and unforgettable alpine views.

For those ready to experience a towering granite giant backed by rugged wilderness and challenging approaches, the Incredible Hulk remains an essential objective in California’s climbing landscape. Whether aiming for a demanding day or an immersive overnight, the journey here shapes itself as a compelling adventure with all the elements real rock climbers seek: solid granite, breathtaking exposure, and a descent that tests your resolve as much as the climbs themselves.

Climber Safety

The descent from the summit involves exposed Class 3 scrambling with steep sections and loose scree that can become treacherous. The overhanging downclimb of the chockstone requires precise technique under potentially tiring conditions. Approach creek crossings can be slippery—hydrate and plan for variable terrain.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Alpine
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length900 feet

Local Tips

Pay the $15 Marina parking fee to avoid parking restrictions and fines.

Use a pine tree landmark to spot the Little Slide Canyon trail divergence.

Wear sandals or quick-dry footwear for creek crossings on the approach.

Scout the rappel anchor from the top before starting the exposed descent.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Routes here span from 5.10 to 5.13b, offering a range of moderate to advanced crack and face climbs. The ratings are generally consistent with High Sierra granite—solid and straightforward rather than sandbagged. Climbers familiar with similar alpine granite walls like those around Tuolumne Meadows will find the rating feel familiar, with some particularly physical sequences on the upper end.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack including cams for granite cracks, nuts, and double rack for longer pitches is recommended. Sandals or water shoes aid creek crossings on the approach. A single rope rappel set is essential for the exit. Be ready for loose scree on descent and exposed downclimbing requiring careful foot placement.

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Tags

granite
multi-pitch
exposed
high elevation
water crossings
loose scree
Class 3 descent
Trad climbing
alpine