"The Turret in California’s High Sierra stands as a towering wall crowned with pinnacles, offering the longest routes in the Little Slide Spires. Featuring the classic East Face (5.9), it’s an accessible yet demanding trad climb that combines solid granite texture with a brief talus approach and captivating alpine views."
Towering above the surrounding spires of the Little Slide Spires, The Turret offers climbers a distinctive blend of rugged verticality and compelling history. Unlike a slender needle, this formation stands as a broad wall crowned with a scattered heap of pinnacles that hint at durability and challenge. At just over 38 degrees latitude and -119 longitude, The Turret presents the longest climbs available in the area due to its sheer bottom-to-top height, making it a rewarding objective for those who seek length and exposure in the High Sierra.
The first known ascent traces back to 1970, when Joe Kiskis tackled mostly moderate 3rd to 4th class terrain on the southwest face, carving a pioneering path up this imposing feature. Beyond this, climbers today mainly look to the East Face route, a classic graded III 5.9 climb that stands as the hallmark route with an impressive 3.5-star rating. This climb is a test of sustained effort over multiple pitches, demanding solid technique and stamina while rewarding the ascent with expansive views of the surrounding rugged wilderness.
Accessing The Turret is straightforward by High Sierra standards. A short scramble across loose talus leads you to the base, where the rock’s textures and subtle edges come into view. The approach, while not lengthy, requires attentiveness to footing as the talus can shift and create tricky moments before you even hang your first piece. This makes proper hiking and scrambling footwear essential, and a helmet advisable to avoid rockfall surprises.
The Turret sits within the larger context of the High Sierra’s Little Slide Spires, an area renowned for its challenging granite climbs and pristine alpine scenery. Climbers can expect the rocky texture to provide reliable friction, though being prepared for occasional loose or broken sections is wise. The East Face is well protected but leans towards traditional gear placements, making it a fulfilling endeavor for trad climbers who appreciate route-finding and gear management.
From a timing standpoint, the best seasons to visit align with the mild months of late spring through early fall. The Wall faces east, catching morning sun that warms the cooler air but provides shade by afternoon, helping climbers avoid the baking heat that can make the rock slick or uncomfortable. Weather can be changeable, so checking forecasts and bringing layered clothing are key to a safe and successful day.
Descent from The Turret is typically via a walk-off route or downclimb along talus slopes that mirror the approach path, but caution is essential here as loose rocks and steep sections demand steady footing. Familiarity with the surrounding terrain and carrying a detailed topo or guidebook will smooth this final step of the adventure.
While The Turret may offer only a handful of established routes, its imposing stature and the quality of the East Face climb make it a must-visit for climbers in the High Sierra. The area’s blend of challenging moves, natural beauty, and historical significance delivers a climbing experience that balances both the physical and mental aspects of the sport - all within an accessible day trip from nearby trailheads.
For climbers planning to explore The Turret and its surroundings, a solid rack of cams and nuts is recommended due to the traditional protection style of the main routes. A helmet is essential given the loose talus on the approach and occasional rockfall potential on the face. As always, leave no trace principles apply here - the fragile alpine environment deserves respect to maintain the quality and character of the climb for generations to come.
This High Sierra classic with its mix of adventure, history, and solid climbing welcomes all dedicated climbers looking to experience a memorable ascent away from the crowds. Whether you are stepping onto The Turret’s granite for the first time or returning for a repeat attempt, the experience promises to sharpen your skills and deepen your appreciation for this striking mountain realm.
The approach involves loose talus that can shift underfoot, posing a risk of slips or rockfall. Helmets are strongly advised. On the climb, remain alert for any unstable rock, especially around the jumbled pinnacles at the summit. The descent also crosses loose terrain where careful footing is crucial to avoid injury.
Approach involves a short but loose talus scramble; watch your footing and wear sturdy shoes.
Best climbed in the late spring through early fall when weather is stable and temperatures moderate.
East Face receives morning to early afternoon sun – start early to avoid afternoon heat.
Carry a detailed topo or guidebook for the descent as talus slopes can be tricky when fatigued.
Expect traditional protection on the main routes, especially on the East Face. A standard rack with cams and nuts is recommended. Helmets are essential due to loose talus on the approach and potential rockfall on the wall.
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