"A gritty 50-foot trad route perched in Upper Mother's Buttress, 'In Search of Don Juan' challenges climbers with its offwidth corner and face holds under a deceptively moderate 5.9 rating. Located directly at the trail’s edge in Unaweep Canyon, it serves both as an accessible test piece and a striking introduction to this remote granite face."
In the rugged expanse of Unaweep Canyon, the Upper Mother's Buttress presents a raw slice of Colorado's climbing heritage, where granite faces rise against an open sky shaped by centuries of wind and sun. 'In Search of Don Juan' stands out as a concise yet demanding test of trad skill, tucked within the first visible alcove off the trail that crawls along the canyon wall. Approaching the route, the trail winds through loose scree and sheltered pinyon pines, the sharp scent of juniper thick in the air, setting the stage for a climb that challenges both body and mind.
This one-pitch, 50-foot climb begins with a gritty offwidth corner that dares climbers to commit, gripping its seams and leveraging face holds on the right. The effort peaks with a wild stemming move, a surge of movement that stretches limbs and nerves alike before manteling onto a ledge that catches breath and focus. From here, the ascent branches into two crack options—each offering distinct textures and angles—guiding climbers to a secondary ledge and then onto a dihedral where the rock's angle eases. Scrambling right from the top leads to a straightforward walk-off, an approachable exit that contrasts the physicality behind it.
Rated 5.9 and known colloquially as “5.6 My Ass,” this route demands respect beyond its grade, offering a gritty, unpolished experience where protection is limited but essential. Climbers should prepare for small nuts and cams, as fixed gear is sparse—expect to build secure anchor points with careful placements. The climb’s style—offwidth and face holds combined—requires a blend of technique and tenacity, making it an ideal challenge for trad climbers eager to sharpen their crack skills in a setting that is both accessible and isolated.
Horas for the area include durable climbing shoes to handle coarse granite edges and gloves for offwidth hand jams. The Upper Mother's Buttress basks in afternoon sun but cools quickly with the canyon breeze, making mid-morning starts preferable to avoid overheating and optimize rock temperature. Water is a must—carry more than usual since the exertion and elevation mix can easily dehydrate, and the trail to the base slices through dry, exposed terrain.
Access is straightforward yet demands attention: from the road, keep aware of the trail markers and the alcove’s unmistakable silhouette against Mother’s Buttress. The granite’s coarse skin brushes against your fingers, while wind whispers tales of past ascents. Use this beta to prep your gear, sharpen your approach, and respect the rock. In ‘In Search of Don Juan,’ the canyon’s granite presents a raw, demanding canvas that rewards skill and persistence.
The offwidth section involves awkward stemming moves on rough granite, which could cause abrasion or falls if not approached with proper technique. The ledges near the top are small; secure anchors carefully. Be mindful of loose rock near the trail approach.
Begin climbing mid-morning to avoid afternoon heat and ensure better rock friction.
Wear gloves or tape hands for the offwidth section to protect against abrasion.
Carry ample water—the approach and climb are exposed and dry.
Pay close attention to route-finding at the start; the alcove is easily identified as the first major feature on the wall from the trail.
Bring a standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts to protect the offwidth and face cracks. Fixed gear is minimal; be prepared to place your own protection carefully on the coarse granite surface.
Upload your photos of In Search of Don Juan and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.