"Hwan Kap carves a steady 145-foot trad line through fractured flakes and slabby sections of Colorado’s West Slabs. This 5.9 route challenges climbers to balance technical moves with careful gear placement, rewarding those who approach with patience and precision."
Hwan Kap presents a subtly challenging trad climb tucked into the West Slabs near Silver Plume, Colorado. Its 145-foot pitch carves a steady path up weathered, blocky rock that invites a thoughtful approach rather than a full-on assault. From the outset, this route feels like a quiet conversation with the wall — fractured flakes demand a bit of extra effort to uncover solid holds, requiring patience and a sharp eye. As you press upward, the rock’s personality unfolds through a series of horizontal ledges and corners that reward careful footwork and creative body positioning. Around mid-route, a slightly overhung right-facing pocket corner pushes you into a tactical choice between a lieback undercling or trusting tiny crimps above. Both options probe your flexibility and balance, turning this moderate 5.9 climb into a proving ground for adaptability on the rock. The final section asks for delicate footwork on slabs and a cautious finish at a lone pine-like tree, anchoring the top where obvious crack systems fade away.
The approach to Hwan Kap is straightforward, tracing a well-trodden path through the West Slabs area with views of rugged terrain spreading out beneath the high alpine sky. The setting feels expansive and quiet, providing a moment’s pause before engaging the climb. Rock quality varies, occasionally demanding a bit of cleaning, but the solid placements keep the momentum steady. Protection requires a rack calibrated to a #3.5 Camalot with additional Alien cams spanning black to yellow sizes to effectively safeguard the route’s length. This setup brings peace of mind, especially as some placements edge into tricky territory.
Descending from the anchor involves following a ramp right for about 120 feet, dropping down to the left ramp leading to a two-bolt anchor positioned above the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route. From here, climbers can choose between four short rappels via two-bolt stations or a pair of 32-meter rappels to reach the ground, each requiring care but well-established and reliable.
In the full scope, Hwan Kap offers more than just a climb; it invites you to engage with the nuances of crack and slab climbing on Colorado’s storied West Slabs. Its blend of moderate technical moves, occasional flake cleaning, and tactical sequences make it an excellent option for trad climbers eager for a route that balances strategy with straightforward execution. Prepare accordingly, take your time cleaning and placing gear, and relish the steady exposure and quiet grandeur of this classic route.
The rock in some sections requires careful cleaning to avoid loose flakes that could compromise holds or protection. Anchor bolts are solid but exposed—inspect before trust and pay close attention during descent transitions to avoid loose rock on ramps.
Bring a sturdy brush or scraper to clear dirt and loose flakes on key holds.
Climb during mid-morning to enjoy good light on the slabs without overheating.
Double-check slings and anchors before rappelling; some bolts are exposed to weather.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for confident edging on slab sections.
A rack up to a #3.5 Camalot is essential, along with Alien cams from black to yellow sizes. These tools will help secure tricky placements formed by fractured flakes and slab features.
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