"Chicago Creek Rock combines bulletproof granite and a tranquil alpine setting just off the scenic Mt. Blue Sky Road. This south-facing crag delivers high-quality crack and face routes, a rich yet mysterious climbing history, and sunny, serene climbing well into the afternoon."
On the quiet shoulder of Mt. Blue Sky Road, where the hum of Colo 103 fades into the sound of wind through pines and the steady rush of Chicago Creek, you'll find one of Colorado's most overlooked climbing outcrops: Chicago Creek Rock. Here, the crag stands in rugged contrast to many of the high-altitude granite formations nearby, offering climbers a taste of true, bullet-hard stone and lines that invite both exploration and reflection.
The drive itself puts you in adventure mode—Idaho Springs in your rearview, anticipation rising as you gain elevation and leave behind the bustle of town. At 6.6 miles south of the I-70 bridge, a spacious pullout marks the start of your approach, just beside a proud National Park sign. An old road heads due south, quickly immersing you in a patchwork of forest and talus. The walk is refreshingly brief; after crossing a sturdy steel bridge over the creek and winding less than a quarter-mile through rugged terrain, you break out at the foot of the crag.
Chicago Creek Rock’s granite is immediately striking—clean, dense, and warm in the sun. Even compared to some classic alpine venues in the region, this wall stands out for the quality of its stone and the south-facing exposure that basks in light until late afternoon. Whether you're searching for trad-protected cracks or bolt-protected faces, the crag invites a sense of curiosity. Some lines are clearly well-traveled, cleaned and climbed by generations past, while others hint at unclimbed potential, displaying lichen-dappled cracks just waiting for a modern ascent.
For sport enthusiasts, two noteworthy bolt-protected routes installed in 2003 climb the main, chocolate-hued plate that faces due south. Both ascend sequences of roofs and crisp edges, providing highly featured movement typical of the area's best granite, topping out in the 5.10 to 5.12 realm. Traditional climbers will find plenty to get excited about as well—short, inviting cracks crisscross the face, and although some have been cleaned up by unknown hands, a few raw lines still await their time in the spotlight.
While the crag’s deep history has faded into local legend—old gear tucked into timeworn cracks suggests pioneers whose names are lost—Chicago Creek Rock rewards both those looking for established lines and the bold who seek out what’s new. The classic "BaDaBoom" (5.12a) is a standout, known for quality movement on bulletproof granite and earning its reputation as a local must-try for those pushing into harder grades.
Difficulty here runs the gamut from moderate to 5.12 or harder, but regardless of what you climb, the setting is reliably serene. The road is within sight, but the forest envelops you, birdsong echoing off the stone while the expansive Colorado sky yawns overhead. On warm summer days, the rock radiates heat; in cooler weather, the wall’s south-facing aspect keeps conditions pleasant long after other alpine crags have chilled.
Keep in mind, access is shifting: with Mt. Blue Sky Road closed for the 2025 season, all approaches must be made via hiking—amplifying both the sense of adventure and the quiet solitude you’ll find here. Bring what you need, respect lingering old relics, and be prepared to explore.
Chicago Creek Rock may not make every guidebook cover, but for those who know, it’s a pocket of quality granite, history, and alpine quietude. It’s a place to climb where sun paints the face gold in the morning and echoes of past ascents whisper through the trees—a hidden gem for those willing to step just a little farther from the road.
The approach crosses talus and a stream—watch footing, especially when conditions are wet. Some fixed gear is quite old; always back up questionable pro. South-facing aspect means increased sun exposure—carry plenty of water.
Arrive early to enjoy the best sun and avoid afternoon weather shifts.
With the 2025 road closure, be ready for a longer, fully human-powered approach.
Double-check any fixed gear before trusting it—some old relics date back decades.
Bring a picnic and linger—the crag is an ideal spot for peaceful rest breaks between sessions.
Expect short cracks and featured faces—bring a light single rack plus draws for sport routes. Older gear placements have been found, but inspect fixed pro carefully. No detailed topo exists; be prepared to assess lines and protection on the fly.
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