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Hole In The Wall at Half Day Dome

Yosemite, California United States
bolted
small cams
granite face
single pitch
moderate approach
southern exposure
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hole In The Wall
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hole In The Wall at Half Day Dome is a sporty 5.10a offering nine bolts and selective gear placements that blend precision climbing with solid protection. This short, intense route demands power and finesse under Sierra sun and shade."

Hole In The Wall at Half Day Dome

Situated in the striking Southern Sierra, Hole In The Wall at Half Day Dome is a focused, vertical challenge that invites climbers to engage with its compact yet demanding terrain. This single-pitch sport route offers a tireless push through tough moves rated at 5.10a, threading a clear line up a textured granite face punctuated by nine well-placed bolts. Beginning right from a secure ledge, the climb demands scrutiny and precision especially between the second and third bolt, where gear placements with a cam or two up to 1 inch are necessary to reinforce protection—adding a touch of traditional security to an otherwise bolted ascent.

The air on the face holds a crisp coolness, amplified by the southern exposure of this wall, which strikes a balance between morning light and afternoon shade in late spring through fall. The granite here feels alive under your fingers, coarse yet reliable, every edge and pocket offering a tactile narrative that connects you directly to the mountain’s character. Sound carries differently here; the distant call of native birds mixes with the murmurs of the wind rushing through nearby ridges, creating an alert backdrop that keeps your senses sharp.

Access to Half Day Dome is straightforward yet worth respecting. A hike out to Chilkoot Lake leads climbers to Shuteye Ridge, where this route prominently claims its spot on the southern face. The approach trail weaves through open pine stands and patches of chaparral, with footing that is firm but occasionally steep. Count on 20 to 30 minutes from the parking to the base, with GPS coordinates 37.4146, -119.4777 guiding the way. Be prepared with sturdy shoes, hydration to fend off dry Sierra air, and timing your climb to avoid the heat of midday in summer months.

Hole In The Wall is perfect for climbers with a taste for sport routes who appreciate a pinch of traditional flair, where a smart gear choice adds security to the physical demand. Though short, the route packs a punch—each move calls for commitment and careful footwork. This climb is well suited to those aiming to build confidence in the 5.10a grade, offering a crisp mixture of fingery holds and delicate body positioning that stands out from longer, more endurance-focused lines in the area.

Descending is quick and efficient via a bolted anchor at the top, with single rope rappels recommended. Be mindful of loose rock at the top and avoid lingering in the landing zone during busy periods. Overall, Hole In The Wall exemplifies the accessible challenge and rugged beauty the Southern Sierra lodges into each route it hosts. It's an excursion that blends skill-testing moves with a practical approach, set against the backdrop of raw, bucket-list wilderness terrain.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the top ledge and confirm solid placements on small cams in the bolt gap section to prevent unexpected falls. Be cautious during rappels—anchors are fixed but always double-check your setup and avoid crowded landings.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach via Chilkoot Lake trailhead—expect a 20–30 minute hike over moderate terrain.

Bring small cams (up to 1 inch) to protect the section between bolt two and three.

Late spring through early fall offers ideal climbing temperatures with balanced sun and shade.

Descend using a single rope rappel; inspect anchors before descending.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade here feels true to its rating, with a notable crux tucked between the second and third bolt where small gear placements deepen the mental challenge. Compared to other Southern Sierra sport climbs, this route carries a slightly stiffer feel due to the added protection responsibility within a short pitch, rewarding both technique and strategic thinking.

Gear Requirements

Nine bolts secure the route, with additional gear placements recommended between the second and third bolts—cams up to 1 inch provide crucial protection to this section. A bolted anchor tops out the climb for safe rappelling.

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Tags

bolted
small cams
granite face
single pitch
moderate approach
southern exposure