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Hesse-Ferguson Route on Hallett Peak: A True Test of Skill and Stamina

Estes Park, Colorado United States
white granite
roof crack
run-out
gear intensive
multi-pitch
exposed
technical
high altitude
Length: 1000 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
7
Location
Hesse-Ferguson
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Hesse-Ferguson route on Hallett Peak is an alpine trad climb demanding sharp route-finding and physical strength. With 7 pitches weaving through striking white granite bands and challenging roofs, it offers a true test for climbers ready to tackle the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park."

Hesse-Ferguson Route on Hallett Peak: A True Test of Skill and Stamina

Hesse-Ferguson climbs the stark, inviting face of Hallett Peak in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park, presenting a route that challenges both the body and the mind. This demanding alpine trad climb stretches across 1,000 feet of rugged granite,split into seven pitches that provide a full spectrum of technical and mental tests. From the first step onto the rock, you’re drawn into an environment where careful route-finding and solid gear placement aren’t just advantages—they’re essential for safe passage.

The climb follows the striking white band on the mountain's face, moving through complex features that include a prominent roof on pitch three which tests your technical edge and physical endurance. The route starts close to the approach trail shared with the Love Route and the Englishman’s Route, but quickly diverges onto more serious terrain. Pitch one invites you into a pink band of rock before turning into a grassy dihedral that leads to a comfortable belay ledge, setting the tone with moderate 5.6 climbing.

Pitch two ups the ante, requiring precise balance and careful movements around a challenging roof section, with gear placements that demand experience given the run-out nature of many segments. This pitch is rated 5.8 and offers two main variants, both requiring sharp route-reading skills to avoid loose or tricky sections.

The third pitch is the crux for many: climbing a slab into a gigantic left-facing dihedral, then navigating under a squared-off roof that forces a steep layback and face climb around the corner. The 5.9 roof section pushes physical limits and tests mental focus under exposure. After surmounting the roof, a broad terrace provides a brief respite.

From here, the route continues with serious face climbs leading to more sustained sections with tricky gear placements and run-out exposures. Each pitch blends sustained physical climbing with the mental challenge of deciding the best path, especially on pitch four where you choose between a run-out face or a wall that joins the adjacent Culp-Bossier route.

Pitch six stands out as the highlight, featuring a sequence of small roofs and a shallow dihedral with an acrobatic feel. It demands finger strength, flexibility, and careful protection placement on what is otherwise a lightly protected pitch, including the only fixed piton on the entire route.

The final pitch is a straightforward push to the summit, but after hours on the wall, its 5.8 difficulty can still feel serious. Descending the mountain requires careful planning, as the remoteness and exposure demand a fully committed approach both up and down.

This route is not for beginners. It rewards climbers who come prepared with a full rack including technical cams, a 200-foot rope, and a steady head. The granite here whispers caution but also rewards those willing to meet its demands. Climbing Hesse-Ferguson is an immersive encounter with the raw terrain of Rocky Mountain National Park, where every move counts and every pitch holds a story of persistence and discovery.

Climber Safety

Run-outs and sparse gear placements increase risk—especially on pitches three and four. Loose rock can be present near the route start, so a helmet is essential. Weather can change quickly in RMNP, so monitoring forecasts before committing is crucial.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches7
Length1000 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the park during summer months.

Practice precise gear placements—run-out sections require confident protection skills.

Scout the route from the base to understand the complex variations and key features.

Pack layers and hydration; temperatures can drop quickly at altitude.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R rating reflects both technical difficulty and serious run-out potential, particularly on the roof pitch. The grade feels stiff but fair, with the exposure and protection challenges amplifying the mental effort. Compared to other RMNP classics like the Love Route, Hesse-Ferguson is more sustained and demands sharper route-finding and gear skills.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard RMNP trad rack with extra small cams and nuts—RP’s highly recommended. A 200-foot rope is necessary to cover the pitches with some options for longer reaches.

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Tags

white granite
roof crack
run-out
gear intensive
multi-pitch
exposed
technical
high altitude