"Hell's Bells is a focused trad climb on Red Tail South at Skaha, featuring a dynamic bolt-protected start through a roof and finishing on a right-facing finger crack. This 50-foot pitch combines technical moves with precise gear placements, ideal for trad climbers ready to enhance their crack skills."
Hell's Bells offers a focused, single-pitch adventure on the Red Tail South crag at Skaha, inviting climbers to test their trad skills against quietly demanding terrain. The route begins with a sequence of bolts that angle up and right, threading through a challenging roof. These initial moves require steady, confident footwork and careful body positioning to maintain balance on the vertical face. Once past this boisterous roof, the climbing eases onto a small ledge that provides a brief moment to catch your breath and prepare for the final section — a right-facing corner crack that demands precise finger and hand jams to ascend with efficiency.
Located within the Okanagan region of British Columbia, this climb benefits from the area's warm, dry climate and solid rock quality. The rock's texture here offers reliable friction, enhancing confidence in delicate placements and footwork. Hell's Bells measures about 50 feet from base to anchor, making it an ideal challenge for those looking to graduate beyond sport climbing into traditional protection.
Protection for this route blends fixed bolts with traditional gear placements. A few well-spaced bolts guide your initial moves, but success leans heavily on smart gear placement in the corner crack. Sizes for fingers and hand-sized cams fit best here, with advanced followers appreciating the optional use of a blue Alien or a #3 Camalot at the ledge for additional security. This blend of gear demands a versatile rack and sharp placement skills to stay safe while moving systematically through the pitch.
The approach to Red Tail South is straightforward though unassuming. A short walk brings you into an open clearing where the sun warms the rock by mid-morning, making spring through fall the prime seasons to climb. Early climbers see the wall bathed in sunshine, while afternoon sessions may drift into partial shade, a welcome reprieve during hotter days.
Climbers keen on Hell's Bells will find the route rewarding both for the physical moves and the quiet sense of accomplishment gained from carefully managing protection and technique. The solid crack finish reveals subtle textures and a touch of tactile movement that makes the climb memorable without being overwhelming. While the climb is rated 5.9, the combination of bolt-led sections and trad crack climbing offers a well-rounded experience suited for intermediate climbers ready to sharpen their trad expertise.
A quick rappel from the anchor or a controlled downclimb returns you safely to the base, where views stretch toward the broader Okanagan landscape. Whether you come for the moderate challenge or to refine essential crack climbing skills, Hell's Bells rewards preparation, attention, and respect for the route's nuances.
While the bolts secure the initial moves, the protection in the crack depends on well-placed cams and nuts. Climbers should double-check placements and avoid rushing gear to reduce rope drag and ensure redundancy. The ledge is small; maintain control when clipping and resting.
Start early to enjoy good sun exposure in the morning and avoid afternoon heat.
Pay close attention to gear placements in the corner crack; the protection is solid but demands care.
Wear sticky rubber shoes to maintain grip on the smooth face moves through the roof.
Bring a quickdraw or two for clipping bolts and reduce rope drag.
Bring a standard trad rack focused on fingers and hand-sized cams. A blue Alien and a #3 Camalot are useful optional pieces for the ledge protection. A few quickdraws can clip the bolts on the lower section.
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