Heavy Weather offers a bold trad climbing adventure in Eldorado Canyon’s Upper Peanuts Wall, a classic destination just minutes from Boulder, Colorado. From the ground up, this four-pitch route tests your crack climbing prowess with a mix of moderate angles, sharp dihedrals, and balancy face moves. The climb starts on a low pedestal beneath a prominent cantaloupe-shaped flake jutting boldly from the wall—a distinctive feature that demands your attention early on. Pitch one weaves through a measured 5.7 crack system before confronting the short but intense 5.9 dihedral carved out by the flake. Protection is solid here, allowing you to focus on technique without second-guessing your gear placements. Care is needed near the large tree at the ledge where loose rock could spell trouble, so a steady hand and clear communication keep the team safe.

The second pitch is the true fulcrum of the route, placing you amidst delicate, balancy moves over what locals call the 'flip-flop' dihedral. This 5.9 section challenges your footwork and body position as you navigate upward and leftward across a ramp, requiring both precision and confidence. For those carrying a 60-meter rope, pitches two and three intertwine well, helping minimize rope drag.

Pitch three shifts the rhythm but keeps the fun alive with a long 5.8 fist crack of shifting width that leads you onto an expansive ramp. It’s the kind of crack you want to sink your fists and feet into, feeling the rock respond with solid friction and reliability. The final push, pitch four, is a short traverse left into a blocky cave, following a clear crack about 15 to 20 feet to the summit. For a slightly different finish, a direct line heads straight up toward a flaring flake, navigating the moves a bit differently—both variations bring you to the bolted rappel anchors positioned right above the flake.

Descending Heavy Weather has become more straightforward thanks to a trio of rap anchors placed along the north edge of the summit slab, each carefully positioned on large ledges or slabs with long chains draped over the lip. The rappel sequence flows smoothly, but remain vigilant for loose rock that could dislodge and threaten parties below—a constant factor in the canyon.

Gear-wise, this route asks for a standard trad rack, with some climbers opting to carry smaller RPs and a #4 Camalot to handle tricky placements around the wider features. The wall’s openness allows you to appreciate expansive views while staying engaged with the technical demands that made Eldorado a staple in Colorado climbing.

Approaching the climb, expect a moderate hike into Peanuts Walls, with well-marked trails and easy terrain that ease your transition from the boisterous canyon floor to the quiet focus of the crux moves. Aim for morning or late afternoon climbs to avoid the harsh midday sun that bakes the exposed rock. The northeast-facing sections offer cooling shade in the early hours, making your grip steady and body fresh.

Heavy Weather balances a solid grade with memorable sequences and classic Eldorado style. Whether it’s your first 5.9 or a familiar challenge, this route demands attention, respect, and a readiness to engage with smooth crack climbing and technical face moves all wrapped in one compact wall.