"Heave Ho delivers a bold trad challenge on Eldorado Mountain’s rugged red cliffs. Climbers will navigate a rough bottom section that smooths into a technical upper dihedral capped with a demanding 5.9 crux—perfect for those seeking steady crack climbing and solid gear placements."
Heave Ho rises boldly about 100 meters above the well-known 'Move Like A Stud' sector on Eldorado Mountain, challenging climbers with its vast, right-facing dihedral. Its towering silhouette of red rock commands attention from below, but with a closer look, the route reveals a story of varied rock quality. The lower two-thirds present a rougher texture, peppered with patches of lichen and vulnerable stone, demanding cautious foot and hand placements. However, as you ascend, the rock tightens into solid granite, especially near the upper section where a technical 5.9 crux awaits. Here, the climb becomes both a physical and mental puzzle—less featured but requiring precise gear placements and steady movement.
Starting from a modest crack, the climb gradually opens into the dihedral, offering compelling moves and ample room to place a standard rack. The protection primarily consists of medium to large stoppers paired with small to medium cams, making for a straightforward but careful rack-up. The belayer’s position at the base offers a front-row view of the variable textures and a preview of the challenging top-out.
The approach to Heave Ho is typical of Eldorado’s rugged charm: a short hike through mixed forest and rocky terrain leads you to the base of the red cliffs. Expect roughly 15 minutes of moderate bushwhacking and scrambling, with GPS coordinates 39.9204,-105.288 available to pinpoint your start. The descent mirrors other climbs in the area, either a fourth-class walk-off that requires attention to route-finding or a rappel anchored above the nearby 'Move Like A Stud' route—both options demanding a solid understanding of local terrain and anchor setups.
This climb fits in well with Eldorado’s portfolio of moderate trad routes that test climbers’ route-finding skills and adaptability to changing rock conditions. Heave Ho’s length of 60 feet offers a compact but rewarding experience, ideal for those eager to sharpen crack climbing techniques and gear placements on a route that blends exposure with steady movement. The exposure and face position make this a great spring through fall outing, as the south-facing wall warms early and stays comfortable into the afternoon.
Gear up with a standard rack up to 2.5 inches, and pay close attention to the lower section where the rock's integrity can vary. Patience in gear placements will reward you with enhanced safety and confidence as you push past the rough start into the clean, bold upper dihedral. This route demands respect but rewards with striking views and the satisfaction of topping out on a classic Eldorado face.
The lower two-thirds can have loose rock and surface lichen making holds tricky. Test each placement and step carefully—avoid trusting anything that isn’t solid. The top crux area requires precise gear placement on less featured rock, so be ready for a technical move and confirm your anchor security. Descent options include a potentially confusing walk-off; bring a map or GPS and always double-check anchors before rappelling.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.
Carry a rack suited for medium to large cams and stoppers—smaller gear placements are rare near the crux.
Scout the base carefully, as the lower rock is loose in places; solid footwork is key.
Plan your descent carefully: the fourth-class walk-off requires attention to navigation, or choose to rappel using the anchor above 'Move Like A Stud.'
Bring a standard trad rack up to 2.5 inches. Expect to place medium and large stoppers along with small to medium cams. The lower sections require extra care in gear placement due to variable rock quality, so double-check placements before committing.
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