"Heart Attack and Vine blends steady trad crack climbing with a bold bolted face pitch, all set within Banff National Park’s wild Back of The Lake area. This two-pitch route offers solid protection and a satisfying challenge for climbers bridging moderate trad and technical sport moves."
Heart Attack and Vine unfolds over two distinct pitches, offering climbers a balanced mix of traditional crack climbing and technical face moves set against the majestic backdrop of Banff National Park's rugged terrain. Beginning along a solid 5.7 crack system, the first pitch invites those with a fondness for precise gear placements to find rhythm and flow. This section moves steadily upwards, shielded by nuts and cams that secure the route’s protective promise. After reaching an intermediate anchor, many climbers pause here, struck by the satisfaction of clean, measured climbing that rewards methodical pace and attention to detail.
Beyond this comfortable midpoint, the climb shifts character dramatically. The second pitch pulls you into a steep 5.10c face where bolts rise like sentries along the rock, keeping the route secure but demanding sharper technique and mental focus. The face's angle challenges balance and footwork, requiring firm edging and confident handholds. Each move invites a tactile connection with the rock’s texture, surfaces alternating between smooth patches and sharper crimps that push your skills.
The Outhouse Wall, perched on the lesser-traveled Back of The Lake section close to scenic Lake Louise, offers a climbing experience that contrasts the park’s well-known alpine routes. The area’s wilderness feels immediate here, with alpine winds hinting at the high country just beyond and distant peaks peering through larch forests. This climb is approachable for those stepping up from moderate cracks to more challenging sport sections, making it a valuable training ground as well as a gratifying line in its own right.
Gear recommendations include a standard rack of nuts and cams up to Black Diamond #2, securing the crack pitch comfortably. The bolted second pitch demands less traditional protection but rewards familiarity with sport climbing techniques. Two bolted anchors provide solid belay stations, offering the option to stop after the first pitch or press onward to the summit of the route.
Given the exposed nature of the upper face, timing your ascent for morning or early afternoon ensures better sun exposure and drier rock conditions. Approaching through trails near Lake Louise is straightforward but requires attention to seasonal trails and potential wildlife encounters. Hikers and climbers alike are reminded to carry sufficient water and head protection, especially during warmer months when the sun can intensify on the face.
Heart Attack and Vine bridges the gap between pure trad enjoyment and steeper sport climbing challenges, making it an excellent choice for climbers aiming to refine skills while soaking in the alpine atmosphere of Banff’s quieter corners. Whether stopping at the gear-protected midpoint or pushing through the bolted crux, this route rewards with a commanding sense of accomplishment backed by one of Canada’s most unforgettable landscapes.
Watch for loose rock near the top of the second pitch and be cautious during descent, especially if conditions are wet or winds pick up. Both belay anchors are sound but check all gear placements before committing to the upper face.
Start early to avoid afternoon shadows and catch dry rock on the face pitch.
Carry extra water—there’s no reliable source near the climb.
Wear sturdy climbing shoes with precise edging capabilities for the face pitch.
Be prepared for alpine winds at the top, especially in late summer.
Bring a standard rack of nuts and cams up to Black Diamond #2 for protection on the first pitch’s crack. Bolts protect the second pitch, with two sets of anchors for belays and an option to stop at the intermediate station.
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