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Hank's Death Star: A Direct Trad Challenge on Kaleidoscope Wall

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
finger crack
single pitch
trad gear
good for beginners
short approach
moderate exposure
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hank's Death Star
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hank’s Death Star draws climbers to Kaleidoscope Wall’s right edge for a concise trad pitch that emphasizes straightforward movement and secure gear. It’s an accessible route that serves as a practical exercise in finger-to-hand placements with a scenic Grand Mesa backdrop."

Hank's Death Star: A Direct Trad Challenge on Kaleidoscope Wall

Hank's Death Star stands as a straightforward yet solid trad climb on the far right edge of Kaleidoscope Wall, within the Land's End area of Grand Mesa. At just 50 feet and a single pitch, this route offers a focused experience for climbers looking to sharpen basic trad skills without the distraction of complex sequences or multilength strategies. The rock here is inviting for placements in the fingers-to-hands range, making it a suitable choice for those eager to practice clean, precise protection on less demanding terrain.

The climb begins at a broad, easy-to-spot ledge below the route. From there, the path angles right along a prominent flake that grips your attention and your hands as it trends upward to the anchor. The flake itself feels like the climb’s spine – solid, direct, and unpretentious. The surrounding environment emphasizes quiet concentration, with sweeping views of Grand Mesa’s distinctive high desert terrain and the distant outlines of the Grand Junction valley cutting through the horizon.

The approach to the base is straightforward and gentle, making the route accessible without a strenuous hike or bushwhack. This ease in access is a welcome feature for climbers seeking a quick afternoon session or a reliable warm-up before tackling more demanding walls nearby. The exposure is moderate, and the climb’s concise length keeps commitment manageable.

Protection relies on traditional gear within the fingers-to-hands range—small cams and nuts will secure your ascent without fuss. The simplicity of gear removes barriers, so climbers can focus on movement and technique rather than hunt for complex placements. While the rating sits at a mellow 5.8, the climb demands steady footwork and an attentive approach on the flake’s nuances. It’s a neat introduction to trad climbing or a low-key outing for local climbers familiar with Grand Mesa’s granite.

Timing your climb in the early morning or late afternoon offers ideal temperatures and beautiful, angled sunlight that highlights the texture of the wall. Summer brings warmer conditions but be mindful of midday heat, which can dry out your skin and sap energy. The route’s anchor is a comfortable stance for setting up top-rope practice or preparing for descent. Speaking of which, rappelling or downclimbing the easy ledge provides a safe exit, although it’s wise to keep an eye on loose rock and to test holds before trusting them fully.

In all, Hank's Death Star may not dazzle with complexity, but it delivers a clean, direct trad experience set amid the striking backdrop of Grand Mesa. It’s a climb that invites repeat attempts and steady progress, suited for those growing into trad or looking to reinforce foundational skills in a scenic, approachable setting.

Climber Safety

Though the climb is moderate, check gear placements thoroughly as small flakes require care. The ledge at the top is spacious but be cautious during the descent to avoid loose rock. Stick to early or late hours to prevent overheating, especially in peak summer months.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid midday heat that can dry skin and reduce grip.

Check all placements carefully—flakes can be solid but still require attentive footwork.

Approach is short and gentle—wear sturdy shoes with good traction for the walk-in.

Rappel off the anchor or downclimb the ledge with caution, testing holds before finishing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels true to form, with no softening or surprises. The main challenge revolves around precise gear placement combined with steady footwork on the right-trending flake, making it a solid pitch for climbers progressing into trad climbing. Compared to other routes in Grand Mesa, it offers a straightforward step up without overkill, ideal for learning clean technique in a controlled environment.

Gear Requirements

Gear up with small to medium cams and nuts ranging from finger sizes to hands. Classic trad rack essentials will cover all placements safely on this route’s flake system.

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Tags

finger crack
single pitch
trad gear
good for beginners
short approach
moderate exposure