"Hanabata is a focused 5.9 trad route on the Far Side’s eastern edge, delivering a crisp, jam-centric climb that doubles as a perfect warm-up before tackling harder lines. This 50-foot pitch reveals a smart balance of technical movement and straightforward crack climbing set in Bishop’s iconic granite landscape."
Hanabata stands as a compact yet rewarding trad climb along the far east edge of the Far Side crag, offering a perfect warm-up for climbers eager to engage with Bishop’s granite offerings. Its 50 feet unfold through a clean line that starts with a modest ledge above eye level, immediately placing you into a sheltered corner beneath a distinctive bulge that dares you to find your rhythm. This initial jam-and-stem sequence delivers satisfying movement, blending technical finesse with an approachable challenge—a fitting introduction to the 5.9 rating.
As you push past the bulge, the holds open up, revealing a straightforward crack system that provides consistent jams and rests all the way to the anchor. The climb flows smoothly, allowing you to focus on precision gear placements and body positioning rather than brute strength. With one pitch, this route isn’t about endurance but about the joyful execution of classic crack climbing skills, ideal for honing trad techniques or easing into more demanding climbs nearby.
The anchors are equipped with two Mussy hooks, offering reliable stations to set up top ropes or prepare for descent. This setup makes Hanabata a practical choice for those looking to transition onto adjacent routes like “Buddha Boy” (5.10c pg13), either as a warm-up before a harder lead or as a cool-down after a redpoint attempt.
Located in Pine Creek Canyon within Bishop's iconic Sierra Eastside zone, the climb benefits from a balanced environment—sheltered enough to protect from intense sun yet open enough to invite cool breezes. The approach is straightforward, making for an accessible mission that respects your time and energy.
Light protection is the name of the game here: a single set of cams from BD 0.5 through #3 covers the necessary placements, while a few nuts can supplement where the rock guides best. The granite, solid and reassuring, demands thoughtful placements rather than heavy rack dumping. This reliance on finesse over gear quantity enhances the experience, underscoring why Hanabata is considered a dependable classic in the Bishop area.
Plan your climb with consideration for spring and fall seasons when Bishop’s sun exposure is most comfortable, and early starts will allow you to avoid the peak heat that can bake the rock during summer days. Quality footwear, attention to hydration, and a light rack will have you confidently enjoying this brief yet memorable trad test-piece. For those looking to add some polished crack climbing to their repertoire in beautiful eastern California, Hanabata offers an authentic slice of the Sierra’s climbing character.
The initial bulge requires confident stem and jam moves; be mindful of secure placements here as falls could be awkward. Rock quality is generally good but inspect placements carefully, and stay aware of loose debris on the ledge approach near the start.
Start early in spring or fall to avoid strong sun and heat on the granite.
Bring a light rack focusing on small to medium cams; filling the rack won’t add advantage.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for jam security and precision on the bulge.
Secure hydration before approach; the trail is short but exposed.
Light rack advised: single set of cams from BD 0.5 to #3 covers placements well; nuts can add security. Anchors outfitted with 2 Mussy hooks allow easy top-rope setups.
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