"Halloween offers a crisp, shaded single-pitch sport climb tucked beneath the main Anarchy Wall. Known for its manageable 5.8 moves capped by a cruxy overhang, it’s the perfect warm-up for climbers heading to Clear Creek Canyon’s steeper challenges."
Carved into the vibrant cliffs of Clear Creek Canyon, Halloween invites climbers seeking a focused warm-up before tackling the more demanding routes higher on the Anarchy Wall. This short, single-pitch sport climb hugs an alcove roughly 50 feet below the main face, presenting an accessible yet engaging test of technique and endurance. The route’s position on the crag catches generous shade throughout much of the day, shielding you from Colorado’s sun while the cool rock supports confident footwork. Approaching the climb, you bypass the steeper scrambles common at the wall’s upper reaches to walk easily on level ground, winding around to a modest overhang that defines the route’s character.
The climbing itself is straightforward but far from mundane. Steep jugs dominate the path upward, inviting confident hand jams and solid grips. The one true challenge is the short overhang near the top, where weary arms must rally for a deliberate pull past the roof’s lip. This punchy move is the route’s crux, demanding smooth positioning and a decisive haul. Though the rating officially sits at 5.8, many climbers find it feeling closer to a comfortable 5.7, especially for those familiar with sport climbing techniques. The line offers minor variations, allowing different sequences that can subtly shift the challenge and rhythm, making it worth repeating to test new beta.
Protection consists of five well-spaced bolts, making it manageable for those newer to lead climbing or anyone looking to dial in their clipping and pacing. The rock quality remains solid with minimal loose debris, a blessing in an area known for its rugged texture and sharp edges. The route’s length, standing at 40 feet, keeps the exposure brief but sweet—long enough to engage but short enough to quickly return to the shade bench below and scout the next push upward on Anarchy’s towering faces.
Clear Creek Canyon itself is marked by dense juniper and rocky outcrops pushing skyward, framing the climb with the quiet din of wind rustling through sparse foliage and the occasional distant rush of the creek. The accessible trail and proximity to Golden ensure this climb is a popular choice for locals looking to sharpen skills or visitors aiming to sample quality sport climbing without taxing approaches. As a practical tip, sturdy climbing shoes with good edging will boost performance on the steep holds, and bringing a light hydration pack is wise to stay refreshed in the semi-arid mountain air.
Halloween blends approachability with enough technical challenge to make it an ideal starting point for your climbing session. It opens a gateway to the crag’s more demanding lines while allowing climbers to flow through its moves with confidence and clarity. Gear-wise, five draws cover the protection needs, and the shaded position offers reprieve during warm afternoons. Whether you’re fine-tuning your technique or simply in for a solid, manageable ascent, this route sets a practical yet rewarding tone for your day at Anarchy Wall.
Watch your positioning when establishing under the roof; the holds can feel pumpy and the spacing of bolts demands smooth clipping. The rock is solid, but loose debris is occasionally found near the base, so check your surroundings before starting.
Approach along flat ground to the right of the crag to avoid scrambling steep hills.
Use climbing shoes with precision edging to handle the steep jug holds and roof crux.
Bring a light hydration pack; the shaded alcove stays cool but the approach is exposed to sun.
Scout potential variations in beta on the climb, as the route allows multiple sequences past the roof.
The route is protected by five fixed draws spaced along the 40-foot climb, providing solid, straightforward protection. The bolts are well placed to cover the crux roof move, making quick clipping essential to maintain flow.
Upload your photos of Halloween and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.