"Raw and textured, Gully to Prow is a gritty 120-foot sport climb on Main Slab’s right side. This route blends natural ruggedness with bolt protection, offering a single-pitch challenge framed by Colorado’s foothills."
Gully to Prow cuts a gritty line along the right side of the Main Slab area near Juniper Pass, offering climbers a raw and straightforward test of focus on a less-traveled Colorado sport route. Extending roughly 120 feet, this single-pitch climb weaves through a bolt-protected gully before carving onto a bold prow. The rock feels alive with texture — coarse patches peppered with stubborn lichen that demands deliberate footwork and precise handholds. As you ascend, the route’s character shifts subtly from narrow grooves to more exposed moves on the prow, pushing climbers to read the terrain carefully with each move.
Unlike heavily polished sport routes, Gully to Prow retains a sense of wildness, giving a chance to engage with the mountain rather than simply flow. The climb lacks a fixed anchor at the top, adding a layer of oversight for those preparing for their descent. Climbers rely on a two-bolt anchor positioned lower on the route for a double rope rappel or find a strong tree anchor farther back from the edge. The route’s protection calls for 13 quickdraws to comfortably clip bolts spaced along the line, designed for those who value a steady progression over a sprint.
Situated near Morrison and Evergreen, this route benefits from Colorado’s mountain air, with Juniper Pass standing as a quiet outpost offering scenic vantage points across the Front Range. The approach to Main Slab is a short hike that navigates open scrub and patches of pine, immersing you in the rugged transition between suburban foothills and untamed rock. Timing a climb here in the shoulder seasons brings a calm energy — mornings deliver crisp sunlight that warms the slab while afternoons bring cooling shadows, flattering the textured rock.
Climbers should arrive equipped with solid shoes capable of handling slightly rough surfaces and bring plenty of water, especially during sunny spells. The route’s sparse vegetation and lichen remind you to respect natural growth; feet and hands find their best purchase on cleaner stretches of stone. The unique challenge here lies in reading the nuanced rock features and managing your protection logistics carefully. Gully to Prow rewards those willing to engage with a climb that feels honest and grounded — a fitting choice for sport climbers eager to blend challenge with Colorado’s wild charm.
The lack of a fixed top anchor means climbers should prepare to build a reliable belay or rappel setup using the tree anchor set back from the edge. The rock near the prow’s bulging sections can be fragile, particularly around bolt sleeves; avoid heavy weighting or falls at these points.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber suited for slightly rough, lichen-covered rock.
Carry at least 2 liters of water; the sun can intensify heat on exposed sections.
Use the tree anchor for your top belay or rappel; fixed anchors at the summit are absent.
Approach early to catch morning light warming the slab before the afternoon shade.
Bring 13 quickdraws for this route’s bolt line, covering the gritty gully moves and the exposed prow section. A two-bolt anchor halfway up serves for a second rappel; otherwise, prepare to set your own top anchor using a sturdy tree located 40 feet back from the edge.
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