"Green Slab’s Original Route in Eldorado Canyon offers six pitches of steady trad climbing, blending technical roof cracks with smooth granite slabs. Perfect for those ready to engage moderate challenges in a classic Colorado setting."
Green Slab’s Original Route in Eldorado Canyon is an enduring classic for trad climbers seeking a solid multi-pitch adventure with approachable challenges and a taste of the canyon’s granite character. Begin by tackling the first two pitches as described in the Green Slab Direct. The climb demands focus early on at the small roof on pitch one, where the key move is a slim crack near the roof’s right edge. Choosing this line significantly lightens the difficulty, while veering left around the roof leads onto an unprotected slab that pushes the grade up to 5.9. From there, a distinct ledge guides you to a sharply defined arete on the left. The next two to three pitches trace this arete with calm, moderate climbing, mostly below 5.7 and comfortably protected, providing a contrast to the technical demands earlier on.
The rock’s texture varies from solid granite slabs to crisp cracks, offering a tactile experience that invites steady footwork and confident gear placements. The climb’s 600 feet unfolds through six pitches of varied terrain — from slab moves testing balance, to crack sections that reward precise jamming — all culminating in tranquil summit views over Eldorado’s rugged walls. Protection calls for a standard Eldorado rack emphasizing small to medium wired stoppers, perfect for securing in the narrow fissures that dominate here.
Access is straightforward, with the approach winding up the Redgarden Wall near Boulder. The trail is well-defined but expect steep switchbacks and occasional loose rock near the base. Once on the route, plan for steady but measured pacing, as route-finding around the arete introduces optional variations but always maintains manageable difficulty.
After topping out, the descent follows the ridge line northward. From there, steep gullies beckon your attention — they’re loose and dirty, requiring cautious footing while making your way down to the scree fields below. Timing your climb to avoid hot summer midday sun enhances comfort, as the east-facing wall basks in morning rays before shading into afternoon.
This route honors Eldorado’s heritage with a balanced blend of technical challenge and open climbing. It’s a rewarding outing for climbers comfortable with moderate trad grades and multi-pitch logistics, offering real connection to the canyon’s granite face along a line that moves with purpose and clarity. Whether you’re sharpening your crack skills or savoring the granite slabs, Green Slab’s Original Route delivers. Hydration, sturdy shoes with sticky rubber, and a reliable rack tailored for the precise protection needed will set you up for a seamless day out on the rock.
Keep a close eye on gear placements around the small roof on pitch one — protection here must be solid to mitigate the fall potential. The descent’s steep gullies can be loose and slippery, so descend cautiously and consider wearing a helmet the entire route.
Stick to the right side of the P1 roof crack to avoid the tougher 5.9 slab left variation.
Approach via the Redgarden Wall trail; expect steep terrain and some loose gravel near the base.
Start early to catch morning sun on the east-facing wall and avoid afternoon heat.
Descend by heading north along the ridge, then carefully navigate steep, loose gullies to the scree below.
A typical Eldorado rack focusing on small to medium wired stoppers will cover the protection needs effectively. Fixed gear is minimal, so precise placement skills are vital here.
Upload your photos of Green Slab-Original Route and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.