"A deceptively approachable 30-foot trad climb on Upper Cascade Wall, Green Door offers careful offwidth negotiation paired with blocky dihedral climbing. Ideal for those seeking a balanced challenge near Ouray with straightforward gear needs."
Green Door stands as a quietly rewarding introduction to the Upper Cascade Wall’s rugged charm near Ouray, Colorado. At just 30 feet and rated 5.8, this single-pitch trad climb might catch the eye with a modest profile, but it offers pockets of excitement that prove it’s more than meets the eye. The route begins with a blocky dihedral that tests your feet and hand jams, inviting steady focus without rushing your movements. As you ascend, an offwidth roof looms, intimidating on paper but surprisingly manageable when approached correctly. While the crack itself demands respect, the surrounding features offer helpful holds, easing passage over the roof with clever footwork and balance. Beyond this challenge, the terrain softens, smoothing out the final moves as you reach a comfortable belay anchored by a sturdy tree.
Despite its approachable length, Green Door keeps climbers alert, especially with the presence of a suspect block mid-route that demands caution. A firm inspection as you climb ensures your safety, as does a light touch when testing holds. Gear requirements remain straightforward: a well-selected set of cams will cover most protection needs, with a #4 cam occasionally helpful near the roof, though not absolutely essential. This simplicity in gear makes Green Door a great pick for trad climbers honing their offwidth techniques or those looking to add a touch of variety to a day of climbing in the Ouray area.
The setting on Upper Cascade Wall blends the quiet wilderness of southwest Colorado’s high desert with refreshing cool breezes and open skies. Its proximity to Ouray places it within reach for most climbers traveling through this famed rock climbing hub. This climb rewards steady movement and thoughtful protection placement over sheer difficulty, making it accessible yet engaging. Conditions generally favor late spring through early fall ascents, when the weather softens and the rock is free from lingering moisture. Planning your approach involves a manageable hike to the base with well-marked trails, avoiding any unnecessary scrambling before the climb.
Expertise aside, preparation is key: sturdy footwear with good edging ability will assist on the blocky dihedral, while a light rack focusing on medium cams will keep your pack balanced. Hydration is crucial in this arid environment, and early day starts can help evade the warmer afternoon sun that can bake the rock surface. Green Door deserves consideration not just for its climbing but for the chance to connect with a less frequented pocket of Colorado terrain, where quiet challenges and simple pleasures come together in a neat, rewarding package.
Beware of a potentially loose block located mid-dihedral. Test all holds carefully and maintain a conservative approach near this section. Use clean placements and avoid over-weighting suspect gear. The route’s short length means a single misstep near the roof could be unforgiving—stay alert.
Inspect the suspected loose block mid-dihedral before trusting it with heavy weight.
Start early to avoid heat on the exposed rock in summer.
Use shoes with solid edging for the blocky initial moves.
Belay from the sturdy tree at the top to avoid cluttering the anchor zone.
Bring a set of selective cams focusing on medium sizes. A #4 cam might come in handy at the roof section, but it's not critical. No fixed gear present, so focus on clean placements and probe carefully around the suspected loose block.
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