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Grand Old Pachyderm: A Contrasting Climb on Derrydale Cliff

Ojai, California United States
slab climbing
steep face
sport route
single pitch
positive edges
crux
Ojai climbing
Length: 75 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Grand Old Pachyderm
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Experience a climb of contrasts on Grand Old Pachyderm at Derrydale Cliff. This 5.9 sport route combines powerful steep face moves with a demanding slab finish, perfect for those looking to refine both confidence and delicate footwork."

Grand Old Pachyderm: A Contrasting Climb on Derrydale Cliff

Grand Old Pachyderm presents a climb that challenges expectations right from the start. Set on Derrydale Cliff along California’s Central Coast, this 75-foot sport route rewards climbers with a unique blend of steep, confident climbing followed by a surprising shift into technical slab moves. The initial section invites you up a steep face adorned with positive edges—solid holds that inspire trust and power. Here, the rock feels reliable, giving you the momentum to push higher, past the initial bolts.

But as you near the midpoint, the angle eases back, and the character of the climb transforms. Suddenly, your muscles need to engage in subtle precision rather than brute strength. The upper slab challenges your balance and footwork, demanding careful and deliberate movements on crisp, sun-warmed stone. A crux appears just beyond the fourth bolt, where finesse and mental focus become essential. Climbers who find themselves tested here can opt to escape to the right, bypassing the trickiest moves if needed.

The surrounding terrain amplifies the experience—a rocky expanse that catches the afternoon sun, offering distant views of the rolling hills around Ojai. While not a long haul, the route’s compact length ensures an intense, focused climbing session. The rock quality is impressive with secure Rawl bolts placed along the way, setting a reliable protective framework that encourages clean ascents.

Preparation here is straightforward but crucial. A solid pair of climbing shoes with a sticky rubber sole will help grip the slab’s subtle edges, and a calm mindset will see you through the technical transitions. Approach trails are short and direct, allowing you to maximize time spent on the wall rather than hiking. The route's location offers accessible day climbing with enough challenge to hold interest for those ready to sharpen their slab skills.

Grand Old Pachyderm blends confidence and vulnerability within its 5.9 grade, making it a rewarding endeavor. It’s an inviting option for climbers transitioning from more straightforward face climbs into delicate slab work on natural rock. The descent is simple and safe via rappel using the two-bolt anchors, making the experience smoothly contained from start to finish.

Whether you’re looking to extend your sport climbing repertoire or seeking a varied climbing day near Ojai, this route captures something quietly compelling. It illustrates the Central Coast’s capacity to surprise and engage, testing different skills across a modest but memorable vertical playground.

Climber Safety

Mind your footing on the slab section: the rock is solid but requires careful balance. Descending by rappel is the safest option; avoid downclimbing due to the route’s slabby finish and limited ledges.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the slab section.

Wear shoes with sensitive edging for the slab moves above the fourth bolt.

Approach via the Hwy 33 trailhead for the shortest access.

Plan for rappel descent using the two-bolt anchors to avoid downclimbing risks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Grand Old Pachyderm plays with the typical expectations of this grade. The initial steep section feels approachable, almost softer than usual, but the slab above demands precision and balance, making the grade feel more nuanced. The crux near the fourth bolt ups the ante slightly, especially if you stay left of the escape. Compared to nearby routes on Derrydale Cliff, it offers a more technical finish that challenges slab skills rather than pure power.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with five 1/2" Rawl bolts and a two-bolt anchor, this route emphasizes solid protection. Climbers should bring quickdraws suitable for sport lines and trust in the reliable bolt placements throughout.

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Tags

slab climbing
steep face
sport route
single pitch
positive edges
crux
Ojai climbing