"Grand Central offers a six-pitch trad and alpine challenge ascending Yosemite’s Cathedral Peak North Buttress. The climb mixes technical face and crack climbing, building to a physically demanding 5.10a crux on the final pitch, set against expansive high-country views."
Grand Central stakes its claim among Yosemite’s North Buttress climbs with a compelling blend of alpine tradition and rock challenge that stretches over six engaging pitches. This 1,000-foot route ascends the heart of Cathedral Peak’s North Buttress, weaving through clean cracks, technical face moves, and a striking hand crack climax that demands both finesse and resolve. Approaching the climb, the granite looms with quiet authority, its slabs and cracks daring climbers to read the stone, place their gear, and move decisively.
The climb begins with a comfortable 5.7 pitch that lets you settle into rhythm on parallel cracks, trailing past a notable large roof that marks the first real obstacle. From here, the rock becomes more varied: pitch two climbs a series of bolts guarding face climbs and subtle dihedrals, while pitch three continues with sustained face climbing protected by a generous bolt run. The fourth pitch introduces The Ramp, a distinct feature combining crack jamming and technical face work, demanding careful gear placement and confident footwork on slightly exposed terrain.
Pitch five nudges difficulty upward with 5.9 moves mixed with delicate traverses near small bushes and old fixed pitons, setting the stage for Pitch six's defining moment. This final pitch culminates in a short but demanding 5.10a overhanging hand crack where jamming and lie-backing skills are paramount. For those opting to aid, a C1 rating provides an alternative, but the physical crux remains a memorable test of endurance and technique.
The protection throughout rewards those who carry a versatile rack, including a full complement of nuts and cams from sizes 0.4 to 3 inches, plus microcams to secure thin traversing cracks, especially on pitch five. Each belay station features solid double-bolt two-ring anchors up to pitch five, though the final pitch requires a walk-off descent, emphasizing the need for retreat planning.
The approach through Tuolumne Meadows offers fresh pine-scented air and open granite vistas, easing you into this alpine environment. Expect a moderate hike with some elevation gain before touching down at the base of the route. After topping out, the descent follows a thoughtful scramble eastward along the ridge, careful navigation around loose slabs, and cairns guiding the way down to join the John Muir Trail, minimizing exposure and technical downclimbing.
For climbers familiar with Yosemite climb grades, Grand Central’s 5.10a PG13 rating feels well-earned yet accessible, presenting a moderately stiff challenge with intermittent rests and less sustained sections. The route strikes an appealing balance between enjoyable cracks and face climbing, making it suitable for trad climbers seeking an alpine adventure with variety and commitment. Preparing with sturdy footwear, ample hydration, and an early start to avoid afternoon thunderstorms will raise the odds of a smooth and memorable day high on Cathedral Peak's north flank.
The descent involves a somewhat complex route-finding scramble across slabs and ledges east of the summit ridge – pay close attention to cairns and avoid getting close to loose edges. The sixth pitch lacks a fixed anchor, so plan for a walk-off or rappel from pitch five exactly. Weather can shift rapidly at elevation, so be alert for afternoon storms and keep extra layers readily accessible.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the high Sierra.
Extend all your anchors and gear placements with long slings to reduce rope drag, especially on longer traverse sections.
Be prepared for a 100-foot third-class scramble right after the final pitch before reaching the summit.
Use the cairns on descent to navigate the ridge safely and avoid unstable edges on the slabs.
Essential gear includes a full set of nuts and cams ranging from 0.4 to 3 inches, supplemented by 2 to 4 microcams such as BD Camalot sizes 00 and 0 for protecting thin traversing cracks on pitch five. Belay stations through pitch five are equipped with solid double-bolt two-ring anchors. While the first five pitches offer reliable protection, the sixth pitch requires wild gear placements and a walk-off descent. Two 60-meter ropes are necessary if you choose to rappel from the top of pitch five.
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