"Goldmember offers a slick, single-pitch slab climb along a narrow golden streak on Medlicott Dome’s west face. With polished granite that demands precise footwork and a storied first ascent, this 5.9 trad route invites slab enthusiasts to test balance and nerve in a stunning Yosemite setting."
Goldmember unfolds as a shimmering challenge etched into the heart of Medlicott Dome's west face, offering climbers a unique slab experience coated in polished granite that tests both balance and nerve. This single-pitch trad route, approximately 150 feet in length, slants upward along a narrow golden dike no more than four inches wide, inviting you to engage directly with the mountain’s smooth, glass-like surface. Beginning from the broad belay ledge atop Piss Easy, Goldmember pushes you into a dance of thin slab moves punctuated by subtle overlaps and a couple of delicate mantels. The rock’s slickness demands laser focus and careful foot placement—the friction here is an unpredictable partner that rewards precision.
The route traces a subtle leftward bend on the dome’s face, culminating in a distinctive hole in the granite that anchors a pair of bolts rigged for rappelling. The climb’s history adds a touch of legend: freestyled by Jake Whittaker alone, the first ascent captivated onlookers, not least because the subsequent addition of bolts—a gesture that many would debate—was blessed by the original climber himself. This rare harmony between tradition and modern safety lets everyday climbers step into a route otherwise reserved for daring soloists.
Medlicott Dome itself is a striking outcrop in Yosemite National Park, California, and affords the kind of quiet grandeur few can rival. The approach follows established paths, but the transition from the broad Piss Easy ledge to Goldmember’s narrow golden vein requires confident movement on polished stone. Your senses sharpen as the sun shifts across the granite’s surface; the slab feels warmer in the morning light, while the afternoon cool calls for steady nerves.
Protection relies mainly on nine lead bolts spaced to keep the line safe but challenging, with gear optional yet helpful: small alien cams fill vital gaps where no fixed hardware exists, providing peace of mind on an otherwise gear-sparse route. Enthusiasts should carry a compact rack, as those tricky placements could be crucial during the climb’s more delicate moves.
Descent demands careful planning. The standard rappel involves moving left from Goldmember’s anchors about 50 feet down to Shagadelic’s anchors, followed by two double-rope rappels to the base. Attempting a direct descent can be deceptive; one slip on the slick surfaces here has a tangible consequence, especially when ropes barely reach the ledge below. A short scramble of fourth class terrain guards one section, so preparation is key.
Goldmember is a compelling option for climbers seeking an accessible but thoughtful slab route in Yosemite. The combination of polished granite, technical thin-footwork, and the route’s unique lineage offers an adventure that’s as much about mental engagement as physical execution. While the grade sits at 5.9, the polished rock and narrow climbs mean this feels like a puzzle more than a raw brawl. For anyone comfortable on slab and eager to push their footwork, Goldmember delivers a rewarding slice of Yosemite’s granite playground with a story to match.
Be alert during descent: rappelling straight down from the Goldmember anchors is not advised, as ropes can come up short due to ledge positions. Follow the designated route left to Shagadelic for safe double-rope rappels. The polish on the granite also increases slip risk, especially if the rock is damp or dusty.
Start the climb from the large belay ledge atop Piss Easy for the cleanest approach.
Bring a set of small alien cams for supplemental protection in gear-scarce spots.
Plan your rappel carefully—use the Goldmember anchors and then rap left to Shagadelic; avoid trying to skip the detour or you may run short on rope.
Aim to climb in the morning when the sun warms the granite and friction feels more reliable.
The route is protected with nine lead bolts spaced to maintain safety along the slab, but carrying small alien cams is recommended to back up tricky sections where the fixed gear thins out. This mix of bolts and optional gear balances security with a traditional slab experience.
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