"Go For Snake is a precise 5.10a sport climb at Critter Crag that balances manageable approach with a technical crux near the anchors. Perfect for climbers seeking a short, focused challenge under desert skies."
Located within the rugged stretches of Critter Crag, Go For Snake offers a brief but engaging sport climb that invites both budding climbers and those looking for a quick technical challenge to step up their game. The route begins on a slabby block where a careful sequence leads to the first bolt—a gateway into steadier climbing on primarily moderate terrain. As you ascend, the holds become more deliberate; the third bolt requires thoughtful movement, nudging you to stay balanced and maintain focus before easing toward the fourth clip. Approaching the anchors, you’ll encounter a concentrated crux: a series of moves demanding precise footwork and good body positioning to overcome the final push.
Stretching 65 feet in a single pitch, Go For Snake is a compact route that doesn’t overstay its welcome but leaves a lasting impression for its technical finesse. The rock features solid, slightly textured surfaces that reward attentive climbers with reliable friction. This sport climb, equipped with six bolts leading to well-placed anchors, ensures strong protection but still requires climbers to be deliberate in gear clipping and movement.
Situated in the western reaches of the High Desert region of California, Critter Crag’s terrain is marked by dry shrubland and open vistas, where sun and wind shape the climbing experience. The wall faces favorable sunlight exposure, meaning mid-morning to early afternoon climbs find the rock warming comfortably but not baking under the desert sun. To maximize comfort and safety, plan your attempt during cooler parts of the day, especially spring and fall, avoiding peak summer heat.
Approach is straightforward: a brief hike along Runway Wash from the parking area leads you directly to the base, crossing terrain that alternates between sandy stretches and rocky paths. This access is generally well-defined but demands good trail footwear to handle loose gravel and occasional cacti. Estimated approach time is about 15 minutes, making Go For Snake a convenient choice for climbers looking to squeeze in quality laps without a lengthy trek.
Protection on the route comes entirely from six fixed bolts that ascend steadily to the anchor station. This setup allows climbers to focus on movement without worrying about gear placements, although maintaining attention while clipping in exposed spots is essential. The anchors are solid and spacious enough for comfortable belaying or lowering.
Critter Crag itself stands as a lesser-known but rewarding area within High Desert climbing, boasting clean rock and a handful of sport climbs that emphasize technical climbing over brute strength. The sense of remoteness here offers a quiet, uncluttered atmosphere, with sweeping desert views that remind you why climbing outside of crowded hubs holds an enduring appeal.
When planning your climb, bring enough water for hydration given the dry climate and consider sun protection as the desert sun’s strength can climb quickly once the morning shade fades. Lightweight but supportive footwear with sticky rubber will enhance your hold grip on the slab sections, while a helmet is advisable due to natural rockfall risk in exposed desert terrain.
The descent is a simple rappel from the anchors with a single rope, dropping you directly back to the base. Take care to avoid loose debris on the rappel route and double-check your anchor setup before lowering. Alternatively, a careful downclimb around the anchors is possible but recommended only for climbers comfortable with exposure on slab terrain.
Go For Snake delivers a concise climb that prizes precision and poise, set against the open desert backdrop of California’s High Desert. Whether you’re sharpening your technical prowess or simply after a high-quality sport route with minimal approach, this climb stands out as an efficient and memorable outing in Critter Crag’s outdoor climbing scene.
Loose rock in the desert environment requires attention during both approach and descent. The rappel anchors are solid but double-check all gear before lowering. Sun exposure can intensify quickly—bring adequate sun protection.
Start climbs mid-morning to avoid the hottest sun on the rock.
Wear sticky rubber shoes to maximize traction on slabby sections.
Carry at least two liters of water due to dry desert conditions.
Approach trail has some loose gravel—use sturdy hiking shoes.
Six fixed bolts run from the base to a secure anchor, no additional gear needed beyond standard sport rack. Clipping during exposed stretches demands careful timing.
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