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Glass House: Exploring Torre De Mierda's Classic Alpine Trad Route

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
trad
alpine
crack climbing
multi-pitch
loose rock
dihedral
chimney
High Sierra
Length: 700 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Glass House
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Glass House climbs a diverse line on Torre De Mierda's east buttress, alternating between loose alpine terrain and classic crack climbing. This five-pitch 5.8 trad route challenges climbers with varied moves and offers rewarding moments on its iconic dihedral."

Glass House: Exploring Torre De Mierda's Classic Alpine Trad Route

Ascending Glass House on Torre De Mierda is a journey that threads through varied alpine terrain, challenging climbers to engage both mind and muscle. Situated on the south side of the east buttress, this route offers five pitches that blend exploratory wandering with bursts of classic crack climbing. The initial pitches lead you across broken faces and mellow ledges, setting a contemplative pace as you follow a subtle line toward a prominent dihedral more than halfway up the climb. Here, in pitches three and four, the route reveals its true character: crack systems that invite skilled hands and steady feet, demanding focus and rewarding with pure movement.

Pitch one begins on a blocky ledge, moving left beneath an overhang along a red ramp. The 60-meter ascent calls for attentive footwork and route-finding, as loose rock and broken features require cautious negotiation. Next comes pitch two, a wandering stretch across easier but potentially loose terrain, ascending toward a talus-covered ledge below the signature corner. Rope drag can complicate progress here, suggesting that splitting this pitch might ease the technical burden.

The heart of the climb appears on pitch three, a short but striking corner crack that stakes a claim in the memory with clean, enjoyable moves over 30 meters. Following closely is pitch four: the dihedral itself, offering some of the best climbing on the route at 5.8 difficulty. Its protected chimney belay area not only reduces rope drag but provides a moment to appreciate the broad alpine environment surrounding you. The final pitch brings a more cautious tone—two chimneys separated by a talus-covered ledge with large, loose blocks challenging every step. Though easier in difficulty, this pitch demands respect and alertness as you navigate precarious features.

Protection on Glass House is straightforward but critical—double cams from 0.5 to #2, with a single #3 to handle wider sections, keep you safe while negotiating both solid and fractured rock. The route's alpine setting inside California's High Sierra means weather and timing play essential roles in planning. Start early to take advantage of stable conditions and avoid afternoon storms common in summer months.

Approach involves a trek from Convict Lake or McGee Creek, with terrain that softens the transition from trail to technical climbing yet remains rugged enough to remind you of the wilderness ahead. The combination of solid pitches and loose stretches keeps focus sharp, blending the unpredictability of alpine climbing with pockets of pure, classic crack routes. For those ready to explore an engaging 700 feet of rock with a mix of style and challenge, Glass House delivers a memorable day in the Sierra that's as instructive as it is exhilarating.

Climber Safety

Loose rock is prevalent on the lower pitches and final chimneys—maintain alertness for dislodged blocks and carefully test handholds. The talus-covered ledges require deliberate foot placement to avoid slips. Weather in the High Sierra is unpredictable; monitor forecasts closely and be ready to turn back if conditions deteriorate.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches5
Length700 feet

Local Tips

Break pitch two into shorter segments to reduce rope drag across wandering terrain.

Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms typical of the High Sierra summer.

Use sturdy, high-traction shoes to handle loose talus and blocky chimneys safely.

Plan for careful navigation on pitch five—a controlled, deliberate pace will help avoid dislodging large blocks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Glass House offers a solid moderate challenge with pitches three and four showcasing clean, enjoyable crack climbing that feels true to grade. The route’s lower pitches feature looser terrain, which can increase the feeling of effort and caution needed. Compared to other Sierra trad routes, it blends technical moving with alpine navigation, making it an engaging choice for intermediate climbers seeking variety.

Gear Requirements

Expect to carry a rack focused on doubles from 0.5 to #2 cams and a single #3 cam to manage wider placements. The protection is essential to guard both solid cracks and loose sections, especially on the chimneys and ledges.

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Tags

trad
alpine
crack climbing
multi-pitch
loose rock
dihedral
chimney
High Sierra