Exploring Convict Lake & McGee Creek: High Sierra’s Seasonal Alpine Challenge

Mammoth Lakes, California
alpine
ice climbing
mixed climb
high elevation
long approach
granite
sedimentary rock
lake access
multi-pitch
classic couloirs
Length: 1000+ (approach and climb combined) ft
Type: Alpine | Mixed | Ice
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Inyo National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Convict Lake and McGee Creek offer a rugged gateway into California’s High Sierra wilderness, where sharp peaks and varied terrain challenge climbers and hikers alike. From forested valleys to steep alpine ascents, this area invites adventurers with its impressive ridgelines and compelling approach hikes."

Exploring Convict Lake & McGee Creek: High Sierra’s Seasonal Alpine Challenge

Rising prominently along Highway 395 on the way to Mammoth Lakes, the high country of Convict Lake and McGee Creek commands attention with its imposing ridges and dramatic landscape. Mount Morrison dominates here — especially in winter when its snowy cap gleams against the sky, signaling serious alpine conditions. The range extends west with peaks like Laurel and Bloody Mountain rising from the main crest, presenting a varied silhouette. Notably, east of the main crest, the geology changes from granite to sedimentary rock, creating contrasting climbing and hiking terrain that tests both technique and endurance.

The McGee Creek trailhead, located past Crowley Lake where McGee Creek Road turns west off 395, offers climbers and hikers a gateway to a high mountain bowl where elevation gains intensify as you approach Big McGee Basin. The first section of the approach is deceptively flat, winding through a broad valley hemmed by forested slopes that exude a quiet wilderness vibe. Beyond the second creek crossing, the trail steepens sharply, gradually grinding upward through alpine meadows decked in wildflowers and patches of rock debris. Climbers often pause at Big McGee Lake — a welcome resting spot at roughly 7,500 feet — because from here the trail becomes more demanding as it gains another 1,500 feet through rocky switchbacks to the pass.

Once over McGee Pass, a descent leads toward Fish Creek, making this a serious day or backpacking trip depending on your goals. West of Big McGee Lake, Red and White Mountain looms as a formidable objective, known as a challenging climb for those comfortable in high alpine terrain. The ridge running west to east south of Big McGee Lake gives climbers opportunities to enjoy panoramic views into Pioneer Basin and toward the Abbot Group peaks — a rewarding payoff for the effort.

Closer to Convict Lake itself, the trailhead is accessed via a spur just before the lake resort, tucked away yet accessible for early starts. The approach here takes you down a striking canyon, its towering walls creating a narrow corridor that feels both wild and slightly eerie — a quiet reminder of the Sierra’s raw power. Reach the lake’s northern edges and you find yourself poised beneath Red Slate Mountain, another peak sculpting the skyline.

Classic climbs here include routes such as North Couloir (WI2), Northwest Couloir (WI3), and the well-rated Psychopomp and West Ridge lines. These mixed alpine climbs highlight the area's icy, steep, and varied conditions, ideal for climbers with experience in snow and ice. The technical climbing grades, ranging mostly from moderate to moderate-plus ice, emphasize far more than raw difficulty—they demand commitment, good route-finding, and respect for Sierra weather dynamics.

Climbing season stretches mainly from late spring through early fall, although winter offers unique alpine challenges for skilled ice climbers. Visitors should anticipate variable weather with cold snaps, snow, and rapidly shifting conditions common at elevation. Permits are required for overnight stays, underscoring the need for careful planning and backcountry preparation.

Gear wise, this terrain calls for a full alpine rack—ice tools, crampons, and protection suited for mixed routes on hard granite and sedimentary rock. The approach trails are well marked but physically demanding, so stamina and acclimatization will serve climbers well. Descents often entail long hikes or scrambles; familiarizing yourself with route details beforehand greatly improves safety and enjoyment.

Whether you’re drawn by the alpine relief of the peaks, the rugged approach hikes threading along shimmering lakes and lush meadows, or the crisp, cold ice lines that define the classic climbs, Convict Lake & McGee Creek stand as a formidable Sierra adventure. Their combination of sustained elevation gain, remote wilderness atmosphere, and iconic high-country views makes this an ideal destination for climbers seeking both challenge and beauty in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Approaches involve unmarked creek crossings which can be hazardous during snowmelt; early season trips should anticipate cold water and unstable footing. Weather can turn quickly, so carry layers and emergency shelter. Descents are long and require good navigation skills to avoid getting lost in the high basin or dense forest.

Area Details

TypeAlpine | Mixed | Ice
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length1000+ (approach and climb combined) feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon storms common at high elevation.

The first creek crossing on McGee Creek Trail can be tricky in spring—be prepared for wet feet or use trekking poles.

Allow extra time for the final steep section above Big McGee Lake; it demands good pacing and energy management.

Permits are required for overnight stays—secure them in advance through official channels.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The route grades here range from WI2 to WI3 in ice climbing difficulty, reflecting moderate technical challenges that reward climbers with solid skills in mixed alpine conditions. Overall, the area's climbs tend to feel true to their ratings, with few reports of sandbagging. Climbers familiar with High Sierra alpine terrain will find the routes well balanced compared to other Californian mixed routes such as those around the Palisades or Yosemite’s alpine spots.

Gear Requirements

Essential alpine gear includes ice tools and crampons for winter ascents, with mixed climbing protection adapted for granite and sedimentary rock. Approaches involve long hikes with significant elevation gain, so bring durable footwear and layered clothing to adjust for changing weather.

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Tags

alpine
ice climbing
mixed climb
high elevation
long approach
granite
sedimentary rock
lake access
multi-pitch
classic couloirs