"GI Joe offers a thoughtful trad challenge along North Cheyenne Canyon’s northeast arete, where crumbly rock and vintage protection demand steady footwork and mental focus. A single pitch climb with exposed finishing moves and an airy summit makes it a concise and rewarding Colorado adventure."
Perched along the Northeast arete of North Cheyenne Canyon, GI Joe offers a straightforward trad climb that mixes light adventure with a touch of mental management. Starting with easy, balanced moves leading to a distinct notch, the route opens into a more exposed section where fixed protection punctuates the challenge ahead. The rock here can be crumbly in places, encouraging thoughtful footwork and strategic gear placement to settle your mind and body. Quickdraws may get you through, but adding cams—especially half-inch to three-quarter inch sizes—brings peace of mind that the route’s uneven protection demands.
The climb length stretches roughly 80 feet in a single pitch, rewarding you with an airy summit that commands quiet respect. The key crux involves a move just above the notch requiring a confident reach toward a better piton and then navigating past three vintage bolts set high on the wall. The slightly weathered rock tests your steady footing more than your power, making it an approachable effort for those comfortable with 5.9 trad moves.
Protection demands a careful approach: small to medium cams serve best for the sections around the notch and just above, where fixed gear is inconsistent. The first piton offers little security, but beyond it, a small red C4 camalot finds two fragile lobes in the rock for placement. Past the crux, the bolts, while old, provide additional anchors — though still deserving of caution.
The anchor setup at the summit feels hand-built and a bit unconventional: two large pipes and a railroad spike piton chained together, reinforced by equalizing slings and knots in surrounding cracks. While it invites rappelling, use discretion—some parties may find the setup less than reassuring.
Crow’s Nest in North Cheyenne Canyon is a granite outcrop known for a hands-on approach to trad climbing, set against the backdrop of Colorado Springs’ open skies and cooling mountain breezes. The approach is short and accessible, weaving through forested trails offering the sound of birds and the brisk rush of nearby creeks. Early morning or late afternoon offers the best light and temperature, as the northeast-facing wall catches shade during the heat of summer.
GI Joe presents a moderate but thought-provoking climb for those who appreciate a route blending natural features with subtle protection puzzles. It’s perfect for climbers wanting a concise 5.9 challenge that demands both good footwork and careful gear management. Given the crumbly sections and sparse protection in places, riders should come prepared with a solid rack of small cams and an eye for old pitons and bolts. Bolstered by its unique summit anchor and the soft Colorado breeze, this route invites exploration with a pragmatic respect for the rock beneath your hands.
Local climbers appreciate GI Joe as a route that rewards moderate skill and a calm mindset, a short adventure that fits neatly into a half-day outing. While the climbing isn’t relentlessly hard, the protection and rock quality encourage steady composure and patience, especially for those new to trad climbing or North Cheyenne Canyon’s texture of granite and ancient metal gear. Plan to bring your rack with at least a couple of wired placements and small to medium cams, plus quickdraws if you prefer clipping the fixed gear for peace of mind.
The approach trail is a quick 10-15 minute hike from the main North Cheyenne Canyon parking lot, making this a great option for a brief but rewarding climb. Stay alert for loose rock on the ledges, and be prepared for a rappel descent using the chain-spiked anchor or downclimb with caution. Seasonally, spring and fall offer cooler temperatures and fewer crowds, while summer calls for early starts to avoid afternoon sun and heat.
GI Joe stands out as a distinctly Colorado climbing experience: straightforward yet requiring respect for nature’s irregularities and the hand of history etched into its bolts and spikes. It invites climbers to engage with the rock in an honest way, blending light exposure, traditional protection, and a lasting sense of accomplishment at the airy summit.
Watch for loose rock and crumbly sections especially near the small cams and older pitons. The summit anchor uses unconventional hardware—pipes and a railroad spike—which calls for double-checking your rappel setup. Avoid sudden movements around the anchor to prevent accidental rope release. Approach and descent trails may have loose debris, so footwear with solid grip is essential.
Start early in the day to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid afternoon sun on the northeast-facing wall.
Use small to medium cams to back up the fixed gear, which can be fragile or poorly positioned.
Carefully assess the crumbly rock sections—footwork is key to maintaining balance and conserving energy.
Plan your descent with caution; the rappel anchor is unconventional and may require double-checking before trust.
Bring a rack of small to medium cams (1/2" to 3/4") plus quickdraws. Wired placements may come in handy for the less-secure spots. Fixed gear is vintage and sparse, so prepare for some thoughtful gear placements. Rappelling from the summit anchor is recommended, but tread carefully around the old pipes and piton chains.
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