"Funnel Runnel offers an inviting three-pitch trad climb on Shuteye Ridge, blending slab, runnel, and corner moves with consistent 5.8 difficulty. This climb provides reliable protection and scenic belay ledges, making it an excellent introduction to multi-pitch trad climbing in the Southern Sierra."
Funnel Runnel cuts a compelling line up the rock face of Shuteye Ridge, offering climbers a balanced mix of slab, corner, and runnel climbing spread across three pitches. This route is a gateway for trad climbers seeking a solid multi-pitch experience without daunting verticality or relentless difficulty. Starting from the slabbly apron, the first pitch navigates a sequence of smooth yet textured rock past six bolts, culminating at a secure bolted anchor that signals a moment to appreciate the surrounding clarity and granite’s subtle hum.
The second pitch invites you into a groove of knobby runnels — natural channels in the rock that provide unique hand and foot holds — before transitioning to a slab and then turning left into a corner. This section demands precise footwork and confidence in gear placements as protection shifts from fixed bolts to traditional anchors. A large ledge marks the belay, offering a pause to catch breath and survey the embrace of the Southern Sierra’s quiet vastness.
Pitch three eases into simpler terrain but begins with a high bolt set off a massive boulder on the ledge’s left side. Though rated at 5.8 like the preceding pitches, it feels approachable yet rewarding. The ending involves a short traverse right onto easier ground, where the top belay is set by a sturdy tree on the summit — a natural anchor point welcoming climbers to rest and reflect on the line just climbed.
Protection on Funnel Runnel is a practical blend of bolts and traditional gear. Expect solid placements throughout, with one bolted anchor and two gear anchors along the route, striking a reassuring balance for climbers honing their trad skills. The approach, rooted in the Lost Eagle area of Apron, Southern Sierra, offers a straightforward trail with manageable terrain.
For those considering this climb, timing your ascent to avoid the midday sun will enhance comfort, as the southern exposure can intensify heat in summer months. Spring and fall provide ideal weather windows, with clear skies and moderate temperatures. Footwear with sticky rubber will aid confidently edging across the slab sections, while a rack optimized for small to medium nuts and cams covers the gear requirements.
Funnel Runnel stands out not just for its climbable quality but for its approachable length and consistent rating across all three pitches, making it an excellent choice for parties aiming to complete a classic Southern Sierra trad route in a single outing. The steady rhythm of slab, corner, and runnel climbing engages both body and mind without demanding advanced technical prowess, perfect for those moving beyond single-pitch climbs.
Keep in mind safety basics: the rock is mostly sound, but paying attention to gear placements around the knobby runnels will reward your caution. Weather can shift rapidly in these elevations, so pack layers and check avalanche or storm advisories when venturing late fall through late spring. Descending involves walking off from the summit, which requires some care to navigate loose rock and avoid trail erosion.
In sum, Funnel Runnel offers an accessible adventure rich with varied textures and natural granite personality. It encourages developing solid trad skills while immersing climbers in the quiet grandeur of the Southern Sierra’s Shuteye Ridge, where every pitch tells a straightforward story of engagement between climber and stone.
While the rock is generally solid, pay close attention to placing gear carefully in the knobby runnels to ensure secure protection, especially on pitch two. Watch your footing on the slabbly apron, especially in damp conditions. The descent walk-off includes sections of loose rock; take deliberate steps to avoid slips or trail erosion.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun heating the southern exposures.
Bring sticky rubber shoes for confident edging on slab sections.
Pack layers due to variable weather at elevation.
Check for loose rock near belay ledges and during the walk-off descent.
The route requires a mix of bolts and traditional gear. Six bolts protect the first pitch, transitioning to gear placements for the second pitch with one bolted anchor and two gear anchors securing the belays. Recommended rack includes small to medium nuts and cams for reliable protection in corners and runnels.
Upload your photos of Funnel Runnel and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.