"Frontal Assault carves a dynamic finger crack up Unaweep Granite’s Smith Wall, offering a committed 115-foot trad climb with exposure that tests steady hands and nerves. This route combines technical jam sequences with adventurous mantling and a striking high desert atmosphere."
Frontal Assault offers a compelling introduction to the Esteemed Unaweep Granite, set within the sprawling amphitheater of Jack's Fortress in Colorado’s rugged Grand Junction area. This single-pitch 115-foot climb presents a measured challenge along a left-facing corner, engaging climbers with a combination of intricate finger jams and stemming that demands both focus and finesse. From the ground, the crack invites a tactile dance of hands and fingers, leading you steadily upward to a narrow ledge where a prominent flake emerges — an ideal rest point that balances exposure with a momentary reprieve.
Continuing up the route, you encounter a small roof that adds a distinct character to the climb. Sneaking past this obstacle on the left through committed finger and hand jams, you arrive at another small ledge that provides an optional belay station. The rock here is solid and textured, offering excellent friction and subtle variations that reward precise footwork and careful placement.
The final section veers rightward, tracing a crack that slices through a narrow fin of granite. This stretch challenges climbers to execute committed hand jams along an exposed edge, where the rock seems to lean outward, daring you to maintain control while savoring expansive views of the canyon below. Upon surmounting this pillar, a short traverse left leads to airy hand jams securing the summit. Though rated 5.9-, the pitch’s sustained finger crack climbing, combined with exposure on the upper sections, keeps the adrenaline flowing.
Protection is straightforward but demands preparedness: Bring a set of BD cams from 0.4 to 4.0, alongside stoppers and a handful of slings to manage tricky placements around flakes and corners. The anchors are well established with three bolts, making the rappel simple and secure. A 60-meter rope is perfectly suited for a single 100-foot rappel westward.
Accessing Frontal Assault requires a moderate approach through the main canyon trails of Jack’s Fortress. The terrain is mostly dry and rocky, with patches of scrub brush framing the path. Allow roughly 20-30 minutes from the parking area to reach the base. GPS coordinates 38.81658, -108.60438 lead you directly to the starting point near the Smith Wall.
Timing your climb in the morning or early afternoon is ideal, especially in the warmer months when shade is limited on the sun-facing walls. Summer climbs are best tackled early to avoid heat exhaustion, while fall offers cooler, more comfortable conditions. The solidity of the Unaweep Granite ensures reliable holds but do remain attentive to occasional loose flakes near the ledges.
In all, Frontal Assault invites climbers ready for technical finger crack work combined with airy exposure—a rewarding mix that both challenges and thrills. Pack your gear carefully, commit to precise movements, and savor the commanding views offered at the summit. This route stands as a satisfying single-pitch experience well worth the approach in Colorado’s High Desert.
Exercise caution around small roofs and flakes; some hold edges can be sharp or unstable. Double-check all placements and stay mindful of potential loose rock during the approach, especially on scree sections near the base.
Start early to avoid the heat on this sun-exposed wall during summer.
Scout for loose flakes near ledges before clipping protection.
Use slings to extend gear placements for smoother rope management.
Approach via the main canyon trail; watch for loose scree near the base.
Bring a BD rack with cams ranging from 0.4 to 4.0, standard nuts/ stoppers, and slings for extending protection around flakes and corners. The route has a three-bolt anchor for a single 100-foot rappel westward using a 60-meter rope.
Upload your photos of Frontal Assault and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.