"Fractured Rib offers a technical, physical challenge on Skaha’s East Portal walls. With a bulging crux and a sharp arete, this single-pitch sport climb rewards precision and composure in a sun-drenched, desert-like setting."
Fractured Rib is a compact yet demanding single-pitch sport climb set against the raw, sun-warmed rock faces of Skaha’s East Portal area. This route immediately challenges you with a left-leaning ramp that gently guides you toward a steep bulge, where technical precision becomes essential. The bulge dares you to thrutch your way through its tight confines, testing finger strength and body tension. Beyond this, the climb opens onto a sharp arete, peppered with well-spaced bolts that guard two defined crux sections. These cruxes require methodical movement and smart footwork, rewarding those who maintain composure with a sense of fluid flow.
The rock here speaks with a coarse texture—gritty enough to offer friction, yet unforgiving to tired hands. Skaha’s dry climate keeps the stone consistently grippy, letting you focus on the subtleties of each move rather than battling slickness or moss. The climb’s modest length means you’ll spend concentrated energy over a relatively brief stretch, making it ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their technique or test fitness on sharp, technical terrain.
Positioned at roughly 49.44308 north and -119.56543 west, Fractured Rib sits in the heart of British Columbia's Okanagan region, a climber’s playground with an ever-growing reputation. The East Portal's rocky amphitheater offers expansive views of the surrounding desert-like shrublands and rugged hills, blending dry heat with cool breezes as the afternoon sun arcs overhead.
Approaching this route involves a straightforward hike from the local parking lot. The trail is well-marked, cutting over dry, open terrain with scrub juniper and sage, giving way to the iconic volcanic cliffs that define the climbing area. This accessibility allows climbers to warm up at the base and mentally prepare before committing to the bolted challenges above.
Protection on Fractured Rib is comprehensive and thoughtfully placed—expect to clip around nine quickdraws. The bolts provide consistent security, allowing you to focus on movement without fearing gear-related concerns. Due to the route’s vertical to slightly overhanging profile, climbers should bring sturdy shoes with precise edging ability and consider chalk to manage sweat on the demanding bulge.
Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon sessions strikes a good balance between temperature and sun exposure. The east-facing wall warms quickly but gains partial shade in the late afternoon. Spring through fall offers excellent weather windows, though summer’s heat can intensify conditions on the rock.
After topping out, a short walk along the ridge leads back to the approach trail, making descent efficient and safe. Always scout for loose rock on the way down, particularly after wetter weather, to avoid slips.
Fractured Rib stands as both a test and an invitation: a route that speaks plainly yet challenges fully, a perfect arena for climbers eager to translate skill into fluid movement on demanding sport terrain. Whether you’re working your redpoint or stepping up from nearby classics, this route promises a sharp, engaging experience within Skaha’s diverse climbing landscape.
The route’s steep bulge demands careful body positioning to avoid sudden falls. While fully bolted, watch for potential swing hazards on longer clips. Additionally, the descent walk requires attention—loose rock and narrow paths can pose hazards if rushed or ignored.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the east-facing wall.
Wear shoes with strong edging performance to tackle the bulge and arete.
Bring plenty of chalk to manage sweat during the technical cruxes.
Scout the descent path carefully for loose rock, especially after rain.
Fully bolted route requiring approximately 9 quickdraws. The protection is reliable and well-spaced, ensuring confident clipping through successive cruxes without gear juggle.
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