"Four Eyes challenges trad climbers with two sustained pitches on textured granite cliffs near Goose Creek, Colorado. A classic 5.9 PG13 route requiring careful gear placements and steady nerves amid a quiet South Platte setting."
Four Eyes stands out along the rugged cliffs of Acid Rock near Goose Creek, a two-pitch trad route that demands a blend of steady technique and attentive protection placement. The climb stretches over 350 feet, weaving through textured granite that bears the marks of time and countless ascents. Located within the South Platte area of Colorado, this route offers a compelling mix of accessible challenge and subtle exposure, drawing a diverse range of climbers looking to push their limits at the 5.9 PG13 rating.
The approach to Four Eyes is straightforward, beginning near the Molly Gulch Campground. From here, a moderate hike brings you to the base where the rock face rises in clear view, framed by pines that shift with the breeze. As you set out along Pitch One, expect to rely primarily on a selection of wires and small cams to secure your movement. The rock's features call for careful assessment, especially since the original bolts, now mostly refreshed over the years, may not offer modern confidence. This requires pairing good footwork with calculated gear placements, particularly early on where a #2 Camalot might be called upon.
Pitch Two extends the adventure, traversing more technical sections peppered with cracks and edges. The climbing here rewards precise gear handling and steady nerves, and the surrounding quiet forest and distant currents of Goose Creek lend perspective to the effort. Moving upward, the route reveals views of the South Platte’s rolling landscape—an energizing reminder of why routes like Four Eyes earn their place among Colorado’s classic trad climbs.
Preparation is key: the granite’s texture demands grippy shoes, and the route’s length and moderate technicality mean pacing yourself while maintaining focus on safety. Plan your climb during spring through fall to avoid icy conditions in colder months. Bring enough water and keep a weather eye, as afternoon storms can develop quickly in the Rockies.
Beyond the climb itself, Acid Rock offers a less crowded, approachable slice of Colorado climbing. The area’s raw character, combined with reliable rock quality and classic trad lineups like Four Eyes, presents a balanced challenge. Security rests on layered protection combined with old but serviceable bolts, reminding climbers to evaluate each placement carefully.
In sum, Four Eyes offers an authentic trad experience that straddles accessibility and essential skill, rewarding climbers with a tangible sense of adventure rooted in the land’s sturdy granite bones.
Carefully evaluate placements on pitch one, as some of the original bolts are now aged or replaced and won’t be fully reliable. Weather can shift rapidly, so plan for sudden storms, especially in summer afternoons. The descent terrain requires attention to avoid loose rock.
Approach via Molly Gulch Campground and expect a 20-minute hike on mixed terrain.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for the granite's rough texture.
Pack enough water and leave early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer.
Double-check each gear placement—old bolts mean protection decisions are critical.
Wires and small cams are the core protection for pitch one, with placements extending up to a #2 Camalot advised. The original bolts were 1/4" Star Dryvins, some replaced since the 1980s to improve safety, but climbers should rely mostly on gear rather than bolts.
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