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Forgotten North Face: Trad and Alpine Climbing on Long's Peak

Estes Park, Colorado United States
finger crack
alpine
trad gear
ledges
downclimb
long approach
Length: 560 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Forgotten North Face
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Venture up the Forgotten North Face for an accessible alpine trad climb featuring quality granite, a hidden splitter crack, and steady 5.8 moves. Ideal for climbers seeking a blend of endurance, technical skill, and Rocky Mountain grandeur."

Forgotten North Face: Trad and Alpine Climbing on Long's Peak

The Forgotten North Face offers a compelling alpine trad climb on quality rock tucked left of Mrs. Stubbs’ prow within Colorado’s rugged Keyboard of the Winds massif. This route blends straightforward movement with moments of technical 5.8 climbing along clean ledges, flakes, and a hidden splitter finger crack, carving a path up nearly 560 feet of vertical granite. Approaching this face demands respect: your journey begins on the Glacier Gorge Trail, winding past Green Lake before tackling the steep North Gully nestled between the Keyboard of the Winds and Pagoda Mountain. This sharp ascent is as much a test of your endurance as your climbing skills, with the path peeling upward into the alpine zone where the air thins and the rock calls.

Arriving at the base of Sievers' Tower, you swing east at the foot of the Keyboard massif toward Mrs. Stubbs’ distinct spine, preparing for the climb ahead. The first pitch involves a 150-foot jaunt up ledges rated around 5.0, an inviting warm-up that winds past weathered stone and offers ample holds. Beyond this, the route tightens into steeper climbing with continuous 5.8 moves ascending through a series of ledges and flakes. One of the highlights along the way is a low-angle splitter crack demanding finger-perfect jams that reward precise technique and straightforward gear placements.

Protection needs are modest but essential. A single rack suffices, emphasizing careful route reading and confident placements over brute strength. Though the pioneers of this route rarely roped up on the initial sections, modern ascent calls for consistent gear management as exposure increases. The summit of the tower presents the real challenge, requiring sustained focus as you navigate slightly left promises of granite towers and sweeping alpine views.

Descending demands equal caution and versatility: while a rappel station has been rumored, it’s not consistently found, pushing climbers to downclimb a 40-foot 5.7 corner on the tower’s backside. This exit demands steady feet and unflinching judgment to negotiate safely before hiking back down the gully that separates Mr. and Mrs. Stubbs.

This climb shines in late summer and early fall when snow has melted, trails are firm, and afternoon thunderstorms are less frequent. Suitable footwear with solid grip and ankle support will ease both approach and descent on rocky terrain. Hydration is essential during the hot approach, and timing your start early helps avoid the day’s heat surplus and potential weather shifts.

With its blend of alpine exposure, quality trad moves, and a classic Rocky Mountain setting, the Forgotten North Face rewards climbers looking for a manageable yet memorable test of alpine rock skills. It’s a route made to appreciate both the tangible challenge of climbing and the vast, rugged landscapes that define Long’s Peak and Colorado’s wilderness character.

Climber Safety

Downclimbing the tower’s backside exposes climbers to loose rock and steep terrain. If you can’t find the rappel station, be prepared for a controlled 40-foot downclimb requiring solid footwork and steady nerves.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length560 feet

Local Tips

Start your approach early to avoid afternoon storms common in the Rockies.

Wear sturdy, supportive hiking shoes for the grueling North Gully approach.

Carry at least 2 liters of water—there are no sources along the route.

Prepare for a technical downclimb or rappel; locate anchors before committing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade feels well-earned but not overstated. The climbing maintains consistent technical interest with a crux centered around the splitter finger crack, which requires good jam technique. Compared to neighboring routes on Long’s Peak, it offers a slightly softer approach, though exposure and alpine conditions add a serious edge.

Gear Requirements

A single rack covers the protection needs adequately. Expect to place traditional cams and nuts cautiously along ledges, flakes, and the rare hidden finger crack for safe progression.

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Tags

finger crack
alpine
trad gear
ledges
downclimb
long approach