"Fondon't is a sharp 5.9 trad climb on Interiors Wall featuring a prominent flake crack right outside a shallow cave. Compact and technical, this 60-foot route offers steady protection and a rewarding test of crack-climbing skills in Colorado’s Escalante Canyon."
Fondon't is a focused trad climb that unfolds along a striking flake perched just outside a shallow cave on Interiors Wall, tucked within the rugged terrains of Escalante Canyon near Grand Junction, Colorado. This single-pitch, 5.9 route stretches approximately 60 feet, offering a compact but engaging experience for climbers looking to test their trad skills against a clean, featured line. The climb’s defining characteristic is its prominent flake, which edges the cave’s opening and provides a textured, sustained crack system that demands steady footwork and confident hand jams. Rock here is solid, with the usual desert varnish picking out pockets and edges that invite thoughtful gear placements.
Approaching Fondon't starts with a moderate hike through the arid canyon landscape, where scattered piñon pines and jutting sandstone formations frame your path. The terrain is dry and exposed, so timing your climb early in the morning or later in the afternoon can shield you from the harsh sun and offer cooler conditions. The climb’s aspect faces southwest, warming up as the day progresses but also benefiting from shadowed relief in cooler months. Ideal seasons for tackling Fondon't run from spring through fall, avoiding the intense summer heat and occasional winter freezes that can make the rock brittle.
Gear needs are straightforward but precise: a standard trad rack covers the range of placements, with cams and nuts fitting the flake’s various widths comfortably. Protection at the start can be augmented by a large cam—commonly a Bigbro—to secure the initial moves, though many find solid natural stances near the base for safe placements. The rock quality along the crack remains consistent, giving climbers solid holds and reliable pro opportunities, which is a welcome assurance given the exposed position on the wall.
Safety is paramount here; the flake’s edges are generally clean but expect some loose flakes or crumbly spots near the cave mouth, so careful inspection before committing to moves is advised. The belay stance at the top is compact but secure enough for a quick anchor, enabling a single-rappel descent or a careful downclimb. Bringing a helmet is a must due to the potential for loose rock above.
Local climbers appreciate Fondon't for its blend of straightforward gear requirements and the technical attention required to conquer its crack. While the overall length and grade present a moderate challenge, the sustained nature of the crack forces steady concentration and rewards those focused on crack climbing finesse rather than brute strength. Despite being a lesser-known climb in the area, it offers a genuine taste of Colorado’s Escalante sandstone climbing, framed by vast canyon vistas and open desert skies.
Plan to pack ample water and sun protection, and prepare for limited cell service as you approach the Interiors Wall picnic area. Parking is accessible but spaces are limited during peak weekends. Before your ascent, review weather updates closely, as sudden thunderstorms can transform the exposed walls into risky terrain due to slippery rock and lightning hazards. Fondon't is a perfect single-pitch outing that sharpens trad technique while delivering an authentic slice of Colorado’s desert climbing character, a must-try for trad climbers seeking both challenge and solitude.
Be vigilant around the cave mouth—some flakes may be loose, and the rock can be crumbly in small sections. Always wear a helmet and carefully test placements. The approach is exposed with limited shade, so manage hydration and sun protection diligently.
Begin early or late in the day to avoid intense sun exposure on the southwest-facing wall.
Bring a helmet due to potential loose rock near the cave entrance.
Carry enough water—shade is scarce, and desert heat can quickly dehydrate.
Check weather forecasts carefully; storms can bring dangerous conditions quickly.
Start protection benefits from a large cam like a Bigbro to secure the initial pull, but most placements along the flake accept standard trad gear with ease. Expect solid cracks for cams and nuts; no unusual gear needed beyond a typical rack.
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