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Flying Horses at The Abbey - A Classic Trad and TR Challenge

Morrison, Colorado United States
crack climbing
layback
slab
bolted protection
single pitch
quartzite
South Platte
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad | TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Flying Horses
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Flying Horses combines demanding crack layback moves with slab climbing secured by bolts, offering a compact, single-pitch trad challenge in Colorado’s South Platte region. Perfect for climbers looking to sharpen trad and top-rope techniques in a scenic forested setting."

Flying Horses at The Abbey - A Classic Trad and TR Challenge

Flying Horses offers a concise but spirited climb that tests your crack climbing technique and slab finesse in the heart of Colorado’s South Platte region. The route starts with a demanding layback, where gripping the crack solidly is key to reaching the slab above. This initial crux is not just a test of strength but of body positioning and patience. Once established, climbers follow a series of bolts that provide a secure line to the top anchor, balancing the natural crack protection with fixed gear safety. The crack itself presents a variable size challenge—from wide enough for a #1 to #3 cam to tighter sections inviting smaller finger placements—making gear selection critical to a smooth ascent.

Set within the Goose Creek and Molly Gulch Campground area, this climb sits amid open forested terrain, where pine-scented air mingles with the sound of wind pushing through the branches. The approach through The Abbey is straightforward, rewarding with broad views of the surrounding foothills and the rising contours of the South Platte basin. This single pitch ascent stretches about 70 feet, offering a compact but satisfying experience that can serve as either a warm-up or a focused objective for climbers honing their crack skills on traditional gear combined with top-rope security.

Flying Horses stands out by blending technical layback moves with slab climbing secured by bolts—a hybrid that encourages a balanced approach to pro placement and clip-in confidence. The bolt line smooths out some of the route’s natural exposure while preserving the adventure of placing cams along the crack. This dynamic keeps climbers engaged both mentally and physically, especially if you’re fine-tuning your trad technique or looking for a climb that builds crack awareness without an overwhelming commitment.

Practical details are just as important here. The proximity to Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Campground means water and camping are accessible, making it easier to plan a multi-day stay. The rock quality is solid quartzite, generally sound though a careful test of holds is encouraged near the start. Gear wise, a rack spanning #1 to #3 cams, with a #4 and some finger-sized protection provides adequate coverage, complemented by the four bolts guiding the slab section. The top anchor bolts ensure reliable top-out security.

Plan your climb for the early morning or late afternoon in spring through fall to avoid the peak sun that advocates caution on the exposed slabs. Shoes with sticky rubber paired with gloves for crack friction will enhance grip and comfort. Hydration is crucial, especially when ambient temperatures climb; there’s little shade on the rock itself, so bring plenty of water.

Flying Horses stands as an accessible yet technically gratifying climb in a rugged, forest-fringed setting. It invites climbers to engage with its physical puzzle while connecting with the South Platte’s raw alpine energy—a fitting addition to any Colorado climbing itinerary.

Climber Safety

Watch out for loose holds near the crack’s base and be mindful of the slab’s exposure to sun, which can increase rock temperature and affect grip. Bolts reduce risk on the slab, but careful gear placement remains essential throughout the crack section.

Route Details

TypeTrad | TR
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid direct sun on the slab during warmer months.

Test holds carefully near the start; quartzite can have loose sections.

Use sticky climbing shoes paired with gloves for better crack grip.

Hydrate well—there’s limited shade on the route itself.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels on par with classic South Platte climbs but expect a firm crux in the initial layback crack that demands precision body positioning. The route’s bolts help ease the technical slab above, balancing the overall challenge without inflating the grade. Climbers familiar with nearby trad routes of similar scale will find Flying Horses approachable yet engaging.

Gear Requirements

Bring a cam rack including #1 to #3 sizes, with a #4 and smaller finger-sized cams recommended for the crack’s varying widths. Four bolts protect the slab section leading to a secure two-bolt anchor.

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Tags

crack climbing
layback
slab
bolted protection
single pitch
quartzite
South Platte