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Flip Me a Lucky: A Bold 5.9 Sport Climb in Clear Creek Canyon

Golden, Colorado United States
single pitch
sport
5.9
stick clip
Clear Creek Canyon
bold start
Length: 65 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Flip Me a Lucky
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Flip Me a Lucky offers a bold, single-pitch 5.9 sport climb in Golden’s Clear Creek Canyon. With a tricky opening move and solid protection, this route tests mental focus and technique while delivering clear views and accessible adventure."

Flip Me a Lucky: A Bold 5.9 Sport Climb in Clear Creek Canyon

Flip Me a Lucky invites climbers to engage with a dynamic single-pitch route that blends technical moves with a bold attitude. Fixed with 8 bolts along its 65-foot vertical stretch, this 5.9 sport climb stands out for its upfront challenge: an opening move that demands commitment and a steady hand. The route recently featured an improvised stick clip using tape and local plant stems, adding an unusual, almost ephemeral character to the start. Without it, a hesitant approach can quickly demand a retreat, but with care, climbers find a flow once past this initial test. The wall’s texture offers varied holds, some of which require precise footwork on rock that, while solid overall, shows signs of wear in places, inviting climbers to move deliberately rather than rush.

Located in Golden’s Clear Creek Canyon, the climb sits within the Fish Bowl area, known for its blend of accessible sport routes and stunning foothill views. Climbers are treated to a setting where the canyon’s geology rises sharply against a backdrop of pines and open sky, while the creek nearby adds a constant murmur, daring you onward. The approach track is straightforward but requires attention, winding through dry shrubbery and occasional loose gravel before arriving at the base.

This climb is a practical adventure for those who want a touch of real deal sport climbing without endless pitches or technical wilderness travel. The protection is straightforward—bolts offer reliable security, supplemented by solid chains at the anchors. Still, the early clip placement, fashioned somewhat precariously, suggests a moment where climbers should exercise patience and test gear carefully.

For planning, gear up with standard sport draws and ensure footwear that handles varied rock textures well. Given Clear Creek’s seasonality, spring through fall offer ideal climbing windows when the light hits the canyon walls just right and temperatures sit comfortably cool to warm. Early season conditions may leave the rock damp, so a dry day is essential to optimize friction and safety. Hydration is simple but crucial; a quick hike-in means you can travel light but carry enough water to stay sharp.

Flip Me a Lucky demands both mental and physical readiness; its opening move earns its reputation as the crux, but once committed, the rest of the climb rewards with consistent holds and a satisfying finish. Whether you're tuning up your 5.9 skills or seeking a single-pitch challenge with character, this route strikes a balance between approachable and edgy. It’s a worthy stop in the Clear Creek lineup—one where nature’s steady presence encourages focus and immersion amid rugged, inviting terrain.

Climber Safety

The first bolt clip involves an improvised stick clip, which might feel unstable. Climbers should bring their own stick clip or carefully prepare for a bold first move. Rock near the clip shows some friability, so test holds before weighting them fully. The approach trail has loose gravel sections—watch your step especially during descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Carry a personal stick clip for a safe first bolt clip.

Wear shoes with good edging for varied rock textures.

Plan climbs for mid-spring to early fall for dry rock and ideal temps.

Approach path is short but can be loose; mind footing on descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Flip Me a Lucky challenges climbers primarily on its opening move, which has a crucial clip that can feel stiff for those without a stick clip or solid commitment. After this crux, the difficulty eases to moderate moves with fairly consistent holds, making it a rewarding climb after the initial hurdle. Compared to other Golden sport routes, this one offers a striking mix of technical precision and runout mental edge.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by eight bolts and solid chains at the anchor. Note the improvised stick clip near the start using tape and plant material, which may feel insecure to some. Bring a personal stick clip or be prepared for a bold first clip.

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Tags

single pitch
sport
5.9
stick clip
Clear Creek Canyon
bold start