HomeClimbingFlash of the Blade

Flash of the Blade: A Bold Trad Ascent on Razor Back in Yosemite

Lee Vining, California United States
runout
trad protection
granite knobs
multi-pitch
alpine approach
long runs
tech face climbing
Length: 305 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Flash of the Blade
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Flash of the Blade ascends the striking granite edges of Razor Back, weaving between runout sections and well-protected bolts. This 3-pitch trad route blends technical face climbing with bold smearing, rewarding prepared climbers with sweeping views over Tuolumne Meadows."

Flash of the Blade: A Bold Trad Ascent on Razor Back in Yosemite

Flash of the Blade invites climbers to experience a focused and rewarding trad climb along the central spine of Razor Back, perched above the serene Tuolumne Meadows. This three-pitch route, stretching approximately 305 feet, showcases an engaging mix of crack and face climbing with a well-balanced dose of runouts and reliable protection. The rock here is clean and robust, featuring striking knobs and edges that demand both precision and composure as you ascend.

The approach begins with a steady hike into Tuolumne Meadows, setting the stage with open granite slabs etched by years of wind and water. The granite feels alive under your hands, cool and textured, daring you upward. From the base, the line climbs sharply with an early bolt that secures the first 25 feet of moderate 5.7 climbing, loosening tension before you traverse right towards a string of bolts. You’ll face a 15-20 foot runout on 5.9 terrain here, requiring mental focus but rewarding with superb rock quality and movement that sparks confidence.

Pitch two rolls out a contrast of climbing styles. Step right off the belay and find yourself balancing delicately on a flake and hanging slab with big, weight-bearing knobs that ease your path upward. This pitch blends moderate smearing and well-spaced bolts, peppered with 5.6 to 5.9 moves that feel technically engaging but cruisy, letting the granite’s texture guide your feet and hands. Expect a 20-25 foot runout here, making gear placements crucial for peace of mind. The pitch ends at a comfortable two-bolt anchor, a perfect spot to catch your breath as you take in sweeping views of Tuolumne’s expansive high country.

The third pitch challenges with sustained 10a climbing and a subtle shift right onto a flake and ramp system. Here you can supplement bolt protection with small cams or nuts for added security on easier, mostly moderate terrain rated around 5.5. The route continues up past spaced bolts, requiring solid footwork and trusting the rock beneath you. The final two-bolt anchor caps the ascent, offering a satisfying finish with expansive vistas and a sense of accomplishment.

Protection requires careful planning—8 to 10 quickdraws plus runners for extended draws come highly recommended. Cam sizes from 0.3 to 1 Camalot cover the traditional gear placements, especially critical on the first two pitches where runouts test your nerves but reward with pure climbing pleasure. The rock quality means pro placements hold well, but the somewhat spaced nature of bolts means you should be prepared to trust your gear and your skills.

While the "R" rating warns of runouts, this climb’s challenge is tempered by its runout distances and sustained technical moves. Climbing teams comfortable with runout offered here, combined with solid traditional protection instincts, will find Flash of the Blade a satisfying test of endurance across diverse granite features. Its connection to Iron Maiden in name adds a touch of fierce spirit to the ascent, making this route a memorable highlight in Yosemite’s Tuolumne area.

Approach access to Razor Back is straightforward from Tuolumne Meadows, with well-established trails leading to the base. The landscape is open, exposed to morning sun but offering afternoon shade that can be a welcome reprieve in warmer months. Plan your climb in late spring through early fall for the most stable weather and rock conditions. Avoid climbs immediately after heavy rain to ensure dry, secure holds.

Descent is best accomplished by rappelling from anchors with double ropes. Be mindful of potential rope drag on the more exposed sections and check anchor integrity before committing. The walk-off from the base is simple and connects back to the main trail into Tuolumne Meadows.

In sum, Flash of the Blade offers a no-frills trad experience combining thoughtful protection strategy, varied climbing styles, and scenic alpine granite. It suits adventurous climbers eager to push their limits amid one of the West’s most iconic wilderness areas. Prepare well, bring the right gear, and tune your focus for a climb that tests both your mind and your skill against Yosemite’s enduring granite.

Climber Safety

Runouts on 15 to 25 feet sections require strong route-finding and trust in your placements. Ground or slab landings in some falls add consequence. Always inspect and place pro carefully, and be cautious of loose edges especially on the slab and flake areas.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length305 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and increase your margin for safety on runouts.

Carry plenty of water and sun protection; exposure is significant on the approach and climb.

Check weather reports before heading out, as granite can become slick and unsafe after rain.

Double ropes facilitate safer rappels and reduce rope drag on this multi-pitch route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a R grade reflects a wall balanced between technical climbing and cautious runout sections. The R rating warns climbers of longer stretches between protection, especially on moderate 5.6–5.9 terrain, which demand mental steadiness more than extreme physical difficulty. Compared to other routes in Tuolumne Meadows, Flash of the Blade offers a stiffer psychological challenge rather than purely athletic moves, making it essential for climbers comfortable managing risk on sustained routes.

Gear Requirements

Expect to bring 8-10 quickdraws, including a few long runners to manage rope drag on gear placements. Essential cams range from 0.3 to 1 Camalot for protecting cracks and flake systems on all pitches, especially the first two. Small cams for the final pitch’s flake will enhance security.

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Tags

runout
trad protection
granite knobs
multi-pitch
alpine approach
long runs
tech face climbing