"A hands-on trad climb weaving chimney techniques and a tricky offwidth traverse, First Impressions tests your ability to blend power and finesse in Mother’s Buttress’s rugged Unaweep Canyon granite."
First Impressions presents a straightforward yet physically compelling trad climb set against the rugged backdrop of Mother’s Buttress in Colorado’s Unaweep Canyon. This single-pitch route demands attention right from the approach, as climbers ease back into a sizable chimney that holds the route’s defining features. The climb’s character emerges with an engaging crux that challenges you to move from secure chimney holds to a more exposed face traverse through a tight constriction. This blend of offwidth and face climbing forces a delicate balance of power and technique, rewarding steady, committed movement.
The granite here has a gritty texture that grips without being abrasive, and the route’s flow leads to a large ledge that offers a welcome pause and a solid two-bolt anchor. Above, though a second pitch exists, First Impressions stands as an accessible yet satisfying step for those ready to test themselves against real crack and chimney features. Protection is approachable with a traditional rack ranging from nuts to a #4 cam, possibly a #5 for the bigger placements. This gear requirement suits climbers comfortable with gear placements but looking for an authentic trad experience without excessive runouts.
The approach to Mother’s Buttress follows a relatively direct trail through a rugged desert canyon where the air hums with dryness and warmth, while rocky ridges rise sharply on either side. Vegetation is sparse; scrub pines and hardy bushes line the path, adding just enough green to contrast the blush granite. Approach time is moderate—expect around 30 to 40 minutes of moderate uphill trekking on solid footing, with GPS coordinates pinned near the base for precise navigation.
Climbers often find the sun favors the wall in the morning, providing shade from late afternoon heat in summer. The wall faces east, making early starts ideal to avoid midday sun baked rock and to keep holds cool. The granite’s texture carries slight warmth but remains pleasant during shoulder seasons spring and fall, when temperatures are neither biting nor sweltering.
Descent from the anchor is straightforward rappelling down the single pitch, lowering yourself back to the ledge and then down to the ground. No tricky downclimb alternatives exist, so ensuring ropes are rigged properly and that gear is cleanly retrieved is critical.
While the grading at 5.9- suggests a moderate challenge, the crux’s awkward offwidth/traverse move adds complexity that can push less experienced climbers. Compared to other routes in the area, First Impressions offers a firm test of chimney and crack climbing technique without overwhelming exposure or runout. Safety notes emphasize cautious movement through the constriction and careful gear placements as cracks narrow and widen unpredictably. Rock quality is solid, but like much desert granite, expect occasional sharp edges.
For those seeking to blend technical crack climbing with a taste of the Unaweep Canyon’s wild landscape, First Impressions delivers with efficient movement on hand jams, face holds, and offwidth wrangling. This climb encourages a practical, measured approach and rewards climbers ready to match the rock’s demands with steady skill and sharp focus.
Be mindful of the chimney constriction where the rock narrows, requiring secure gear placements and controlled movements to avoid falls. Pay attention to sharp granite edges that can wear rope or gloves, and approach with caution during warmer months to manage dehydration risks.
Start early to enjoy cooler rock and avoid harsh midday sun on the east-facing wall.
Focus on solid footwork during the face traverse to conserve energy through the crux.
Double-check placements near the chimney constriction to prevent unexpected slips.
Bring a #5 cam if you want extra security on wider sections, though many go without one.
A standard rack of nuts and cams from small sizes up to a #4 (consider carrying a #5 for larger placements) covers the protection needs here. The chimney and offwidth sections require thoughtful placement, especially around the constriction where gear turns tricky but essential.
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