First Boulder at Ethan Allen Park - Compact Boulder with Classic Lines

Burlington, Vermont
short approach
low height
classic boulders
seasonal closures
Vermont climbing
easy access
Length: 4 ft
Type: Boulder
Stars
Pitches
bouldering
Protected Place
Ethan Allen Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"First Boulder in Vermont’s Ethan Allen Park offers a concise bouldering experience packed with classic lines and easy access. Perfect for climbers seeking a quick session or a gentle introduction, this spot combines straightforward approach with memorable problems like Obvious Overhang and Broken Bottles Broken Hearts."

First Boulder at Ethan Allen Park - Compact Boulder with Classic Lines

Located within the cherished Ethan Allen Park in Vermont, First Boulder offers a small but well-loved climbing spot that punches above its modest size. The boulder stands roughly four feet off the trail, approachable within moments of leaving the parking lot by taking the left fork. Once you spot the cliffband on your right, this is the first climbable formation on your left, a neat introduction or quick stop for climbers exploring the Hillside Boulders. Although compact, it hosts a handful of problems that catch attention, especially for those who appreciate bouldering grounded in its local context.

The setting is straightforward but inviting—a short session here feels intimate and efficient. Climbers will find the area’s chalk marks sparse yet consistent on the primary challenge, signaling popular routes with a friendly atmosphere rather than intense traffic. The elevation sits at 191 feet, generally offering cool air in spring and fall, making these transitional months the prime climbing season to enjoy without excessive bugs or summer heat.

Classic problems like Obvious Overhang, rated at V2, and Broken Bottles Broken Hearts, at V4, provide a clear range of challenge within the small zone. These climbs serve both as solid warm-ups and as routes demanding sharp technique and commitment in a confined setting. While the boulder's grading is considered lenient by local standards, visitors should still approach the problems with respect, knowing that precision trumps sheer force here.

Ethan Allen Park itself is a regional treasure, a green refuge with networked trails weaving through mixed forest and rock outcroppings. First Boulder’s proximity to the parking area and ease of access makes it suitable for quick climbs or introductory days out with friends or family. The approach is on well-marked paths, a brief walk of just a few minutes, so equipment hauls stay minimal and straightforward.

Climbers should keep in mind the park’s seasonal restrictions. Raptor nesting closures are in effect at times, so checking current access conditions at cragvt.org before visiting is essential. This effort helps maintain a balance between outdoor recreation and wildlife conservation, ensuring climbing stays sustainable here.

Protection around First Boulder is simple — pads provide the best safety cushion given the low height, and the problems here benefit from careful spotting more than elaborate setups. This approachability matches the area’s casual vibe: a spot for quick sessions, skill honing, or a scenic break within Vermont’s friendly outdoors.

For those planning a visit, timing your climb with favorable weather is key. The boulder is exposed enough that direct sun impacts afternoon sessions in summer; mornings and evenings during spring through fall offer more comfort and grip. Snow and ice close off access through the coldest months, but the moderate elevation means you can expect a welcoming climb at the edges of the season as conditions improve.

First Boulder’s charm is found in its simplicity and accessibility. Unlike sprawling bouldering destinations demanding daylong commitments, this gem invites climbers to embrace a focused, approachable experience. Whether you’re testing your skills on the Obvious Overhang or tackling the more demanding Broken Bottles Broken Hearts, the boulder’s blend of practicality and quiet allure leave a memorable impression without overwhelming.

This spot fits perfectly for those exploring northern Vermont’s climbing options, offering a brief yet satisfying outdoor adventure with straightforward logistics. Combine it with other Hillside Boulders for a day in the woods rich with opportunities to move, learn, and enjoy the fresh air.

Ultimately, First Boulder stands as a reminder that climbing enjoyment doesn’t need to be complex or grand — sometimes it’s about the crisp feel of rock beneath your hands, the fresh pine aroma carried by the breeze, and the thrill of completing a problem on a classic, well-used stone. If your route takes you to Ethan Allen Park, be sure this little climb is part of your plan.

Climber Safety

The boulder’s low stature means fall consequences are minimal, but pads and spotting remain crucial for safe landings. Climbers should remain cautious during seasonal closures to avoid disturbing sensitive raptor nesting zones. The approach is short and stable, with no significant terrain hazards.

Area Details

TypeBoulder
Pitchesbouldering
Length4 feet

Local Tips

Take the left fork from the parking lot and watch for the cliffband on your right to find First Boulder on your left about four feet off the path.

Visit during spring or fall for the best temperatures and grip conditions, avoiding hot, sweaty summer afternoons.

Respect seasonal raptor closures to preserve nesting habitats; current updates are available at cragvt.org.

Bring at least one solid bouldering pad and a spotter for safer landings on the small boulder.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Grades at First Boulder tend to feel forgiving relative to other local spots, with V2 and V4 problems standing out as approachable challenges for intermediate climbers. The boulder's easier grading means it's accessible but still tests technique. Compared to larger bouldering areas, it offers a gentle, honest introduction to Vermont’s rock without sandbagging.

Gear Requirements

Bring standard bouldering pads for adequate protection. The boulder is low, so spotting alongside pads is recommended. No specialized gear is required. Check seasonal closures on cragvt.org before planning your trip.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

short approach
low height
classic boulders
seasonal closures
Vermont climbing
easy access