Ethan Allen Park: A Boulder and Toprope Gem in North Burlington, Vermont

Burlington, Vermont
toprope-only
shaded climbs
bouldering
urban climbing
helmet recommended
erosion-sensitive trails
Length: 193 ft
Type: Toprope | Boulder
Stars
Pitches
Single pitch, bouldering
Protected Place
Ethan Allen Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ethan Allen Park offers a refreshing blend of approachable bouldering and top-rope climbs set just minutes from downtown Burlington. From shaded, quietly tucked boulder problems to a lower cliff wall with routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.11+, this area delivers an authentic local vibe and a climbing experience that rewards exploration and respect for the fragile environment."

Ethan Allen Park: A Boulder and Toprope Gem in North Burlington, Vermont

Ethan Allen Park brings a unique climbing experience in the heart of North Burlington, Vermont, just a short drive from the city center. This compact but rewarding area features a mix of scattered quality boulder problems and a handful of well-established top-rope routes along the lower wall by the park entrance and beneath the park's iconic tower.

The climbing landscape here is modest but genuine – small rock formations shaded by surrounding trees create pockets of quiet focus. While many of the boulder problems are conveniently alongside footpaths, some of the area’s best gems remain hidden off-trail, demanding a bit of exploration and care to protect both the footholds and the fragile forest floor. These rarely climbed problems can get slippery with accumulated dirt, so brushing and patience are key to maintaining the quality of the rock and your enjoyment.

Along the entrance wall, climbers will find nine top-rope climbs ranging from straightforward 5.7 routes to technically demanding challenges up to 5.11+. Each route is equipped with two-bolt anchors at the top, shared anchors on some lines, and most are safely accessed by walking down from the cliff top, although a couple require rappelling to ledges below for setup. The City of Burlington strictly enforces a top-rope-only policy here to preserve safety and the integrity of the rock, meaning no lead anchors are allowed. If you’re interested in establishing new toprope lines, CRAG-VT acts as a resource and gatekeeper for maintaining sustainable climbing practices in the park.

Some trails leading to the climbing spots are currently facing erosion challenges. Climbers are encouraged to minimize impact by taking alternative routes around vulnerable areas, helping protect the park’s natural fabric. Wearing helmets is recommended due to occasional brittle or loose rock on new lines.

Getting here is simple - drive north out of Burlington on North Avenue for a few miles, turn right onto Ethan Allen Parkway near the Rite Aid, and use the park’s designated lot. From there, pleasant footpaths lead you right into the climbing zones.

Elevation sits around 193 feet, offering manageable climbs for a satisfying day out without the commitment of high alpine or extended approaches. The shade and cooler microclimate make this an inviting spot in the warm months, although climbers should always check for seasonal raptor closures that may restrict access. The best climbing window generally spans spring through fall, when temperatures and daylight align for safe and enjoyable outings.

Classic problems spotlight some of the park’s climbing range: from the dynamic boulder problem Obvious Overhang rated V2 with solid star ratings, to Broken Bottles Broken Hearts (V4) providing a more challenging test of power and precision, and No Balls, a beloved 5.9 top-rope route praised for its accessibility and climb quality. These climbs highlight the diversity in difficulty and style on offer for all skill levels, making Ethan Allen Park a versatile choice whether you’re seeking laid-back fun or pushing your limits.

Approach, access, and route maintenance in Ethan Allen Park are community-minded and straightforward, yet demand respect for the fragile terrain. This blend of ease and stewardship, paired with great climbing tucked just off the urban core, crafts an experience that’s both accessible and deeply rewarding. For climbers in Vermont or visiting the Green Mountain State, Ethan Allen Park stands out as a perfect spot to sharpen skills, soak in forested cliffs, and feel the pulse of local climbing culture on rock that’s solid and shaded but never overwhelming.

Climber Safety

Some routes require lowering from the cliff top to set up top-ropes, which demands cautious rappelling and solid rope management. Loose or brittle rock on less frequented problems means helmets are advised, and erosion-prone trails call for careful foot traffic to preserve the environment.

Area Details

TypeToprope | Boulder
PitchesSingle pitch, bouldering
Length193 feet

Local Tips

Respect the top-rope-only policy – no lead anchors allowed to protect the area.

Use alternative approach trails to avoid eroded paths and protect foliage.

Helmets recommended due to occasional loose or brittle rock on new lines.

Check cragvt.org for seasonal raptor closures before planning your trip.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The top-rope routes at Ethan Allen Park cover a spectrum from moderate 5.7 climbs to challenging 5.11+ lines, providing a realistic yet approachable experience. The grades tend to be accurate with some routes feeling stiff due to the technical nature of the rock and exposure. This area is ideal for climbers looking to build skill on solid Vermont rock without the complexity of lead climbing.

Gear Requirements

Climbers will find fixed two-bolt anchors for all top-rope climbs, with some routes sharing anchors. Because this is a top-rope-only area, bring your own rope and gear for safe top-rope setups, and consult with CRAG-VT to install any new lines if interested. Helmets are advisable given occasional loose rock. Brushes and care are needed to keep less-traveled boulder problems clean and climbable.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

toprope-only
shaded climbs
bouldering
urban climbing
helmet recommended
erosion-sensitive trails