"Fire in the Hole carves a memorable line along the Main Wall’s Extew Terrace, blending steep cracks with precise gear placements across three carefully pitched sections. Its blend of technical moves and alpine solitude makes this route a must for committed trad climbers visiting Northern BC."
Fire in the Hole stands out on the Main Wall’s Extew Terrace like a sturdy sentinel, offering a three-pitch traditional climb that tests both technique and nerve. Located in Northern British Columbia, this route invites climbers into a raw, alpine setting where jagged cracks challenge your hands and feet, and the forest below stretches wide beneath a cool, northern sky. Approaching the base demands alertness and respect—solo up to the base crack if you're confident and skilled, as the climb begins with a right-angling fissure that ascends sharply through solid granite.
The first pitch (5.9) covers roughly 30 meters, requiring well-placed gear up to 3.5 inches. It culminates in a crux just before the step left to reach a precisely bolted anchor. The rock here grips like a firm handshake; the crack invites you to wedge and smear in tandem, coaxing delicate balance and steady rhythm. Pitch two (5.11b) ascends 15 meters. This segment demands focus as you follow a crack curving left off the belay, ending at a bolt and a large chain that prepares you for a controlled traverse to the next bolted anchor. The crux here raises the intensity, pushing climbers to link moves with confident footwork and secure placements.
The final pitch eases back to 5.8 difficulty, offering a 20-meter traverse along a broad crack that edges left to a bolted belay, where the audacious can pause and look back over the landscape’s sweeping expanse. Descending requires two ropes: first a 20-meter rappel to a ledge holding another bolted anchor, followed by a longer, free-hanging rappel to the forest floor below. The descent, like the route itself, rewards thorough preparation and respect for the alpine environment.
Gear up with a full rack extending to 3.5 inches and trust your ability to protect the climb. The mixed protection system and bolt placements demand steady judgment and attention, while the route’s moderate length and pitch variety make it an excellent venture for climbers seeking a balanced challenge. Northern BC’s granite embraces you with crisp air and quiet wilderness, reminding you at every move that this is climbing stripped to essentials—rock, rope, and resolve.
The descent involves two significant rappels with long free-hanging sections—double-check rope length and rappel setups to avoid dangerous situations. Rock quality is generally solid, but pay close attention at the crux and step-off points for loose flakes or subtle runouts.
Solo carefully up to the base crack; ensure your system is secure before heading onto the first pitch.
Bring two ropes for the descent rappel system—long rappels require double-rope technique.
Approach early in the day for better light and stable weather conditions.
Check gear thoroughly and be prepared for the 5.11b crux on pitch two, which demands precise placements and committed moves.
Expect to carry a traditional rack up to 3.5-inch camming devices. The route features bolted anchors at each belay station, but gear placements throughout the pitches are essential for safety and progression. Preparation for mixed protection is key.
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