Finn at Spruce It Up: A Classic 5.9 Sport Climb in South Platte

Denver, Colorado United States
sport climbing
5.9
single pitch
bolted
ledges
South Platte
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Finn
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Finn is a tight, well-bolted 60-foot sport climb in South Platte’s Spruce It Up area. With cruxes bookending the climb and four sturdy ledges offering brief rests, it’s a solid 5.9 testpiece perfect for climbers seeking rhythmic movement and secure protection."

Finn at Spruce It Up: A Classic 5.9 Sport Climb in South Platte

Finn in the Spruce It Up area of South Platte, Colorado, offers a focused and rewarding challenge for climbers seeking a well-protected 5.9 sport route with clear, straightforward movement. This single-pitch climb stretches 60 feet straight up, punctuated by four distinct ledges that not only break the ascent but invite brief moments of rest to catch your breath and take in the surrounding forested environment. The climb demands attention from the very first moves, where the crux appears, setting the tone for a neat balance between tension and flow. As you work your way up, the rock’s texture provides consistent friction, offering enough grip for solid footwork. The crux returns near the top, asking for a focused sequence of moves before you cruise toward the final two-bolt anchor.

Located within the South Platte recreational area, Finn sits amid a landscape marked by pine-fringed slopes and the rustle of wind threading through the trees. The approach is accessible, leading through well-marked trails that follow gentle, forested terrain before opening to the climb's base. This setting blends quiet natural beauty with reliable climbing infrastructure, making it a favored spot for climbers who prefer sport routes with clean protection and moderate challenge.

The climb’s protection setup includes seven bolts spaced comfortably along the route, providing a reassuring lifeline while emphasizing movement and technique over gear concerns. This makes Finn well-suited for climbers transitioning into harder 5.9 routes or seasoned athletes warming up before tackling more sustained or complex lines. Timing your climb for late morning or early afternoon is ideal, as the wall faces southeast, allowing the sun to warm the rock without baking it entirely, leaving just enough coolness to maintain good friction.

Preparation-wise, sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability are essential to master the route’s technical sections, especially the crux moves near the start and finish. Bringing a light rack focusing on quickdraws is sufficient due to the secure bolt placements, and a well-practiced lead technique will benefit climbers eager to move smoothly through the climb’s rhythm. Hydration is vital for the approach and warm-up—while the trail is manageable, the dry Colorado air can deplete energy faster than expected.

The descent is straightforward: rappelling from the two-bolt anchor or a simple walk-off down a short but steep slope just beside the climb. This makes Finn not only an efficient single-pitch challenge but also part of a day’s worth of climbing in the Spruce It Up corridor, where multiple sport routes can be linked in a well-paced session.

For those curious about the feel of the grade, Finn’s 5.9 is firm but fair; the cruxes push just enough to demand good foot placement and body positioning without overwhelming the climber. Its bolt ladder provides confidence, encouraging focused climbing but also allowing some rest on the ledges in between.

In short, Finn delivers a crisp, well-protected sport climb infused with the character of Colorado’s South Platte climbing scene. It’s an accessible delight for climbers aiming to sharpen their skills within a natural setting that asks for respect yet rewards effort generously.

Climber Safety

While the route is well protected, be mindful of the ledges where loose rock can accumulate. Maintain caution during descent especially if rappelling, as the anchor stance requires careful steps.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start the climb with steady footwork to navigate the initial crux cleanly.

Use the four ledges to rest and evaluate the next sequence calmly.

Bring sturdy shoes with good edging for optimal grip on the textured rock.

Plan your climb for late morning to early afternoon for ideal sun exposure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade on Finn feels dependable; the early and late cruxes require precise movement but are not unexpectedly hard. The well-spaced bolts add security, making the difficulty feel accessible compared to other local 5.9 routes that might be more sustained or have awkward protection.

Gear Requirements

7 bolts lead climbers safely to the two-bolt anchor; no additional protection necessary beyond quickdraws.

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Tags

sport climbing
5.9
single pitch
bolted
ledges
South Platte