"Finger Locking Good offers a compelling mix of bolts and trad gear on the granite faces of Mammoth Crest. This two-pitch 5.8 climb blends secure finger crack climbing with open slab moves, delivering an alpine experience both technical and accessible."
Finger Locking Good pulls you into a compelling mix of bolted sections and traditional gear on the Mammoth Crest, a striking ridge just outside Mammoth Lakes, California. This climb offers a solid introduction to alpine mixed climbing with a genuine 5.8 rating and two pitches, each with distinct challenges and flowing movement. The route begins with an inviting blend of bolts and gear protection on clean granite, transitioning into a finger crack that demands both technique and attention to detail. As you settle into the climb, you'll find a rhythm moving past the first pitch’s well-spaced bolts and intermittent gear placements, all while framed by expansive views of the Sierra Eastside. The ledges here feel large and inviting, offering comfortable spots to catch your breath and take in the calm alpine air.
The first pitch stretches about 165 feet, starting with two bolts leading you into sections that alternate between fixed protection and trad placements. This well-balanced pitch scripts a subtle narrative of hangs and moves that never feel forced, but still require precision—especially when moving past the clusters of bolts toward the spacious two-bolt anchor with rap rings. The second pitch introduces a left traverse away from the anchor, then a short vertical push followed by a rightward traverse above the belay, guiding you into a finger crack that dominates the slabby granite face. This finger crack feels lively under your fingers, coated in rough granite that rewards good placement and steady footwork. Climbing here is pleasantly secure, as the crack accepts cams and nuts quite well—a confidence booster on a face that otherwise tests balance and body positioning.
Coming off the climb, rappelling with two ropes is the norm, but experienced parties might find shortcuts using intermediate anchor points, particularly those situated mid-route on pitch one. The quality of protection leans on a mix of bolts and gear, so packing thin cams up to a #2 Camalot, alongside a set of draws including some extended ones to reduce rope drag, is essential. The approach to this route offers a quiet alpine setting with no trail congestion, allowing you to soak in the sharp air and wide Sierra views before you climb.
Though the rating sits comfortably at 5.8, the climb's variety demands solid crack technique and the ability to move smoothly between gear styles. For climbers familiar with the Sierra but seeking a route that balances protection with engaging moves and open exposure, Finger Locking Good fits the bill with attractive solitude and high-quality rock. Timing your ascent for early morning ensures you avoid the afternoon sun on the slab, with late spring through early autumn providing the best weather window before seasonal snows return. If you’re after a climb that’s approachable yet stimulating and wrapped in a rugged alpine landscape, this route offers a practical adventure with rewarding climbing and memorable views.
While the rock is solid, protection placement between bolts can be tricky on the finger crack pitch; avoid skipping gear here to maintain safety. Additionally, rappelling requires careful rope management due to potential drag and anchor locations—double-check anchors before descent. Seasonal weather shifts can bring sudden storms; be prepared for alpine conditions.
Start early to avoid midday sun on the slab sections.
Use long draws to reduce rope drag on the first pitch’s bolt clusters.
Practice solid finger crack technique as the second pitch demands precise placements.
Double ropes streamline the rappels; consider scouting mid-route anchors for a one-rope rappel option.
Bring a rack with thin cams to #2 Camalot size and a full set of nuts. Long draws help manage rope drag through the route’s blend of bolts and gear. Be prepared to switch protection style smoothly between fixed bolts and trad placements, especially on the finger crack pitch.
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