"The Finch Route offers a rewarding alpine trad climb on Hallett Peak’s 1st Buttress, featuring two long pitches that test technique and strategy amid sweeping Rocky Mountain vistas. Ideal for those moving into alpine terrain, it blends solid granite cracks with scenic exposure and moderate challenge."
The Finch Route stands as a compelling test piece on the upper pitches of Hallett Peak’s 1st Buttress, situated within the rugged embrace of Rocky Mountain National Park. This climb threads the prominent corner system that splits the Standard Route to the left and the Center Route to the right, delivering two long, sustained pitches rich with alpine granite character. Starting from the ledges that separate the lower and upper sections of the buttress, the route offers a climb that is both methodical and engaging, perfectly suited for climbers comfortable in alpine trad environments seeking a moderate challenge.
Upon arrival at the approach ledges—accessible either via the Great Dihedral (the lower pitches of the Standard Route) or by descending from Hallett’s Chimney—the route’s true nature reveals itself. The first pitch captures the essence of Hallett Peak climbing with classic crack and face moves on solid granite, a test of steady footwork and gear placement with a sense of exposure tempered by ample protection. The rope stretches to full length here, and with a 60-meter rope, climbers can reach a semi-hanging belay perched just before a second small roof.
The second pitch demands more tactical reading of the rock. After negotiating the roof, climbers encounter a wide crack cloaked in moss and moisture, requiring thoughtful movement to avoid damp, slippery holds. On drier days, this crack yields more straightforward protection and easier climbing, but when wet, it introduces a cautionary element that tests patience and precision. Packing a standard rack up to 4-inch cams will cover the gear needs efficiently, but expect to place protection with care, especially on the upper pitch's mossy section.
At roughly 400 feet in length over two pitches, this route balances a sense of adventure with a manageable timeframe. The climb’s moderate 5.8 rating fits comfortably within the spectrum of traditional alpine routes in the Colorado Rockies, making it approachable for confident climbers moving up from gym or crag climbing to more committed alpine terrain. Bear in mind that weather can dictate the experience here—dry granite rewards the effort, while dampness demands extra attention.
Beyond the climbing itself, the area offers sweeping alpine views characteristic of Rocky Mountain National Park. The exposure along the route allows for wide vistas of nearby peaks and valleys, underscored by the cool mountain air that invigorates and sharpens the senses. The location’s high elevation and wilderness setting infuse the climb with a timeless quality, where every move feels connected to the elemental forces shaping these ancient rocks.
Planning your ascent means coming prepared: bring plenty of water, consider layered clothing to adjust to changing mountain temperatures, and allocate enough daylight to complete the climb and descent safely. Approach trails can be steep and require good conditioning, and GPS coordinates mark a remote zone where timely navigation is essential. Whether accessing via the Great Dihedral or from the top-down descent approach, expect a solid alpine day where the rewards are as tangible as the granite holds beneath your fingers.
The Finch Route’s blend of rock quality, moderate challenge, and Alpine setting makes it more than just a climb—it’s a chance to engage with the mountain on its terms, balancing focus with appreciation. For climbers ready to leave the crowds behind and immerse themselves in the less-traveled corridors of RMNP’s alpine granite, this route delivers a satisfying experience that invites respect, preparation, and measured ambition.
The second pitch’s mossy crack can be treacherous when wet, amplifying the risk of slippery holds and tricky gear placements. Proceed cautiously and be prepared to adjust or retreat if conditions deteriorate. Weather in RMNP can shift rapidly, so monitor forecasts and bring appropriate gear for sudden changes.
Start early to avoid afternoon weather changes common in RMNP.
Dry conditions make protecting and climbing the second pitch much more straightforward.
Approach via the Great Dihedral for a classic ascent, or descend to the ledges from Hallett's Chimney for a less traveled access.
Bring layers as alpine temperatures can fluctuate sharply during the day.
A standard trad rack to 4 inches covers the protection needs here, with careful placements necessary especially for the moss-covered crack in the second pitch.
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