"FedEx is a 40-foot sport climb in British Columbia’s Kootenays that demands precision and finger power. With a punchy sequence of crimps and side-pulls, this route challenges climbers to bring focused technique and endurance in a short, accessible format."
FedEx commands attention immediately with a short, sharp burst of climbing that challenges your finger strength and composure. Located in the eastern stretches of British Columbia’s Kootenays, this 40-foot sport route slices through a steep face peppered with crimps and side-pulls that dare you to hold on as pump sets in quickly. The rock texture demands precision; every grip commands respect as you navigate the sustained sequences. Staying right of the Pony Express climb is crucial—this subtle guidance keeps you on the line that offers the best flow and bolt protection. With just six well-placed bolts, FedEx balances security and challenge, appealing to those who seek a no-frills, immediate test of endurance and technique.
The approach to this route is straightforward, accessible from the Lakit Lake access roads that thread through quiet forest patches and open rocky clearings. The climb sits in a location where the mountain’s east-facing aspect catches morning light, warming the rock to a pleasant temperature for early starts, while afternoon shade offers relief during warmer months. Though brief in length, the climb requires focused effort and sharp footwork, making it a perfect punchy session for those looking to sharpen their crimp skills without committing to a long day on the wall. Before you clip in, ensure your fingers are ready to engage with tight holds that do not forgive slack technique.
The route’s protection is straightforward—six bolts spaced to allow confident clipping while engaging in dynamic moves. While bolts are dependable, the intense nature of the sequence gives priority to your ability to read the rock and conserve energy. Be prepared with climbing shoes that offer sticky precision and consider finger tape to guard against the inevitable grinding. Given its star rating just above three, FedEx appeals mostly to climbers on the cusp of advanced skill who want an accessible but not trivial line to push their limits.
Lakit Lake itself offers more than climbing; it’s an area rich in pine-scented air and cool mountain breezes that brush across the skin. Post-climb, a hike along nearby forest trails or a moment by the lakeshore provides a chance to reset and recharge. Remember, this route is best tackled in stable weather and when dry, as moisture on the crimps could scramble even experienced hands. With a brief but intense engagement that sharpens technique while offering spectacular views over the Kootenays’ rugged landscape, FedEx is a climb that leaves a lasting impression—short but perfectly defined.
While the protection is reliable with six bolts, maintaining clean clip technique is essential to avoid mid-route struggles. The face’s sharp holds can stress fingers quickly—warm up thoroughly and know your limits, especially on a dry rock surface to prevent slips.
Approach via the well-marked trail from Lakit Lake parking; expect mixed forest and stony patches.
Start early to take advantage of morning warmth on the east-facing face.
Keep right of the adjacent Pony Express route to stay on the correct line.
Avoid climbing when the rock is damp; crimps lose grip quickly.
Equip yourself with sticky shoes and consider finger tape to protect against the sharp crimps. Six bolts offer straightforward protection, but precision clipping is important to maintain flow.
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