Cleft Cave: Alberta's Multi-Sport Adventure with Climbing, Caving, and Epic Views

Crowsnest Pass, Alberta
limestone
sport climbing
multi-sport
lookout views
alpine
caving
moderate grades
good for summer
Length: Approx. 80-100 feet per pitch on rappel; climbing lines are single pitch ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch, multi-pitch rappel (caving exit)
Protected Place
Crowsnest Pass Backcountry
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cleft Cave offers a rare blend of adventure in Alberta’s Crowsnest Pass, combining rewarding sport climbing, beginner-friendly caving, and panoramic cliffside lookouts. With classic lines like Entrance Right and Resident Goat plus the option to rappel out through cave windows, this area packs a big punch for multi-sport days."

Cleft Cave: Alberta's Multi-Sport Adventure with Climbing, Caving, and Epic Views

Set deep in Alberta’s Crowsnest Pass, Cleft Cave offers a unique brand of adventure for those who crave more than just vertical movement. Here, climbing isn’t the whole story—it’s part of a rich, all-day pursuit that weaves together the thrill of limestone crags, the curiosity of caving, and the simple pleasure of journeying through wild terrain. Whether you’re chasing sunlit rock or the cool, echoing hush of underground chambers, Cleft Cave rewards with diversity and a sense of discovery that fuels both bold first-timers and seasoned explorers.

The journey begins on foot or bike, following the well-traveled Trail of Seven Bridges into Ptolemy Valley—a passage favored for its rolling trails and easy navigation. As you approach the Promised Land campsite, Cleft Cave emerges as a keyhole-shaped slot in the eastern cliff. Getting there means turning right at a fork, then a short hand-and-foot scramble before you’re led by the so-called "goat highway" to the cave’s mouth. This single approach is the first hint that you’re in for something far more memorable than a typical crag day.

Once at the base, the climbing itself is straightforward but not without personality. Expect pockets, dappled sunlight, and limestone features that satisfy technical ambitions without overwhelming. The rock quality is reliably solid, thanks in part to water-worn dolostone that lends a unique character, especially near the parallel lines of Resident Goat and Ain't No Phreatic Crawl. Bring your quickdraws and a light sport rack; there’s no need for heavy trad gear here. The grades are inviting but still honest; whether you're warming up on Entrance Right (5.10c) or pushing through some moves on Resident Goat (5.10d), both classics offer aesthetic, enjoyable climbing with the bonus of dramatic views as a backdrop.

But what truly sets Cleft Cave apart is the seamless blend of activities. Move beyond the last bolt and step directly into the network of galleries that make up the cave, easy to traverse on foot without technical ropework. The air cools as the light dims—yet the real reward is waiting at the far end. There, two large windows cut through the cliff face, revealing soaring vistas over Andy Good Basin. If you’re prepared, the adventure continues: a two-pitch rappel, established in 2022, takes you out of the cave windows (staying right in the passage) in two drops—17 meters and 30 meters. This not only injects a shot of vertical excitement, but also allows you to complete a through trip, emerging in a new basin. From here, options beckon: take a brisk alpine lake dip before trekking or biking your way back, completing the full 18km loop that defines a real multi-sport day.

With its 7,900-foot elevation, Cleft Cave climbs tend to be cool, making late spring through early autumn the best window for sun at the cliff and pleasant temps underground. Expect sunbeams in the evening—the perfect time for a golden-hour session at Cleft Crag, just outside the cave, before retiring to camp. If you’re planning an overnight, Promised Land’s established sites are your staging grounds.

For those curious about caving and the broader underground scene, the Alberta Speleological Association is an excellent point of contact. There’s also invaluable reading in Rollins' "Caves of the Canadian Rockies and Columbia Mountains."

In the end, the appeal of Cleft Cave lies in its honest adventure—accessible yet full of opportunity for the prepared. Here, sport climbing meets caving, big views meet hidden crevices, and the route out might just be a rappel through the sky. If you want a day that rewrites what climbing in Alberta can mean, Cleft Cave is waiting.

Climber Safety

Be prepared for polished, possibly slick rock near seepage zones; use caution near the cave entrance and while rappelling. Always check anchor integrity before descending and consider seasonal conditions, as weather can shift quickly at high altitude.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch, multi-pitch rappel (caving exit)
LengthApprox. 80-100 feet per pitch on rappel; climbing lines are single pitch feet

Local Tips

The cave and crag are generally cooler due to elevation—bring layers, especially outside of mid-summer.

If you plan to rappel out of the cave, double-check your rope lengths and bring gear for a two-pitch descent.

Spot the keyhole entrance from the Promised Land campsite, then follow the goat highway for the easiest scramble to the cave.

A post-adventure dip in the nearby alpine lake is a perfect way to cool off and wrap up your day.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The grades on classics like Entrance Right (5.10c) and Resident Goat (5.10d) are straightforward, neither particularly soft nor sandbagged. Expect honest moves typical for Alberta’s limestone and a comfortable level of challenge for most sport climbers. Compared to more notorious grade-tweaking areas, Cleft Cave tends towards the fair side.

Gear Requirements

Sport climbing hardware only—bring quickdraws and climbing shoes for the crag. No technical ropework needed inside the cave, but a rappel setup is required if exiting by the established route (two-pitch 17m and 30m).

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Tags

limestone
sport climbing
multi-sport
lookout views
alpine
caving
moderate grades
good for summer